Friday, June 3, 2011
Why wont my car change gears on need for speed pro street?
i have my settings on automatic but my car wont change gear and starts to sound really strained.|||tis gives me a chance to ask a q to is tis game better than fifa street 2 bec one year back i was confused to choose wat i need for my psp it was nfs pro street or fifa street 2|||change it back to manual and then back again to auto hope this helps
How to change Car ownership for insurance?
I just bought used car yesterday(paid completely with cash). In order to add it own to my fathers insurance does the car need to be in his name and if so how do I go about doing it. the car is currently in my name and is it even legal for me to be driving it right now? I remember my uncle telling me something that you are automaticly covered when you first buy a viehicle!|||It is not safe to drive until it is insured. Cars are insured, not drivers. Being listed on someone else%26#039;s policy has nothing to do with insuring the car you just bought. Buy some insurance for it before you move it one inch. It will be more expensive to insure because it is in your name as opposed to the parent(s) you live with. It would be cheaper to have the car put in the name of the parent that you live with. To change ownership from you to your Dad, you and Dad should take the title and go to your DMV , pay the fees and make Dad the owner.|||Your father must have an insurable interest in the %26quot;viehicle%26quot; in order to insure it. You must go to DMV and transfer the title to his name or both your names (check with your insurance company...they may only want dad%26#039;s name).
You do realize with the car being in your father%26#039;s name, that if you injure/kill someone in an accident, whether it be your fault or not, your father is liable and can lose everything he has worked his entire life for?|||Normally, it needs to be in his name to be on his policy.
If you already had a policy in effect, it may be automatically covered under your name if the policy is still in effect. If you don%26#039;t have a policy, it cannot be automatically covered on something that doesn%26#039;t exist?
So, to recap, if it is in your name, it probably isn%26#039;t insured on your Dad%26#039;s policy and if you don%26#039;t have a policy in effect in your name, it probably isn%26#039;t legal to be driving it right now. What are you doing for plates?
You most likely would have to transfer it to your Dad%26#039;s name so it can be on his policy.
You do realize with the car being in your father%26#039;s name, that if you injure/kill someone in an accident, whether it be your fault or not, your father is liable and can lose everything he has worked his entire life for?|||Normally, it needs to be in his name to be on his policy.
If you already had a policy in effect, it may be automatically covered under your name if the policy is still in effect. If you don%26#039;t have a policy, it cannot be automatically covered on something that doesn%26#039;t exist?
So, to recap, if it is in your name, it probably isn%26#039;t insured on your Dad%26#039;s policy and if you don%26#039;t have a policy in effect in your name, it probably isn%26#039;t legal to be driving it right now. What are you doing for plates?
You most likely would have to transfer it to your Dad%26#039;s name so it can be on his policy.
How frequent I should change my car oil and fuel filter?
I discover oil leakage from my car oil filter and my oil level is now btw L and F of the oil guage.This was due to improper tighten of the filter which I have rectified now i.e proper tighten now. My meter reads 1500km from last service date. Should I change the oil now or top it to the F mark? Pls advise me.
Thanks|||Do what your car%26#039;s owner%26#039;s manual says to do. It tells you what maintenance intervals. The fuel filter can go as long as 80,000 miles as long as you haven%26#039;t ever run out of fuel and emptied the fuel tank. That causes the fuel filter to plug up and it needs replacing then.|||just fill it to the oil mark. the proper oil change should be done at 3000 to 3500 miles(not into kilometers) ok fuel filter on new car as in brand new first 5000mi. then every 15000mi.(unless it%26#039;s done by toyota%26#039;s service standards- which they require every 10000mi. that%26#039;s why they last as long as they do. belts every 15000 to 20000mi. brakes every 20000 to 25000mi. anti freeze every 25000 to 30000mi. spark plugs every 25000 to 30000mi. transmission every 25000mi. differentials every 20000 to 25000mi. if you do this type of maintenance on your vehicle it will last you up to 10 to 15 years. because you will still need to do other types of work. that can%26#039;t be done unless you have all the tools necessary. and proper work place.|||Do you mean the oil guage indicator on the dipstick? If so yes, fill your oil up to the full mark. Make sure to use the correct oil.
If your not on about the F mark on the dipstick then Ive never heard of an oil guage in a car apart from the oil pressure and temperature guage which is completely different that doesn%26#039;t relate to your oil LEVEL.
Top the oil up, the oil should be changed usually every 10,000/15,000km since last change. Check your owners manual!!!|||Top it off, you should be fine. If you were only loosing a small amount of oil over a long amount of time then there really isn%26#039;t the possibility of dirt getting into the loose filter...so I would simply top it up to the full line.
What%26#039;s this about fuel filter...? Did you want to know when you should change your fuel filter too? If so, this can largely depend on the quality of gas you are getting for your car...it%26#039;s pretty common to replace a fuel filter every 60,000km - 100,000km (or 40,000m - 60,000miles)|||Oil need to be change based on oil type u have use, more good oil quality as synthetic oil will be more longer to ur next oil change. And oil filter need to be change for every 10000 km and if u change ur oil type and or brand, evasive unlucky reaction from the chemical in the oil. For ur case, if ur last service has include oil changing, then u only need to add same oil to F level.|||If you are ever unsure do the safest and cleanest option available, IE change your oil. Then write down your mileage and put that in the glove box. You should change regular oil every 3 months or 5,000 miles and for synthetic blends change every 4 or 5 months or 6,000+ miles.|||unless you drive under extreme conditions (dust, high heat, heavy traffic, extreme cold, towing) you should only need to change your oil every 8000km. just refill it and keep track of the level, but don%26#039;t worry about it.|||replace oil 5000 miles or before
fuel filter once a year best but depends on where its at most in tank last a long time does need it til you have a problem with it
if its tiem to replace oil change it if not just add to top off|||If you can afford it then do the filter and oil change now then every 3000 miles is the suggested interval for optimal engine life.|||Just top it off. Change the oil when it%26#039;s due again.|||change it every 10,000 miles|||your car manual will tell you when to change oil
Thanks|||Do what your car%26#039;s owner%26#039;s manual says to do. It tells you what maintenance intervals. The fuel filter can go as long as 80,000 miles as long as you haven%26#039;t ever run out of fuel and emptied the fuel tank. That causes the fuel filter to plug up and it needs replacing then.|||just fill it to the oil mark. the proper oil change should be done at 3000 to 3500 miles(not into kilometers) ok fuel filter on new car as in brand new first 5000mi. then every 15000mi.(unless it%26#039;s done by toyota%26#039;s service standards- which they require every 10000mi. that%26#039;s why they last as long as they do. belts every 15000 to 20000mi. brakes every 20000 to 25000mi. anti freeze every 25000 to 30000mi. spark plugs every 25000 to 30000mi. transmission every 25000mi. differentials every 20000 to 25000mi. if you do this type of maintenance on your vehicle it will last you up to 10 to 15 years. because you will still need to do other types of work. that can%26#039;t be done unless you have all the tools necessary. and proper work place.|||Do you mean the oil guage indicator on the dipstick? If so yes, fill your oil up to the full mark. Make sure to use the correct oil.
If your not on about the F mark on the dipstick then Ive never heard of an oil guage in a car apart from the oil pressure and temperature guage which is completely different that doesn%26#039;t relate to your oil LEVEL.
Top the oil up, the oil should be changed usually every 10,000/15,000km since last change. Check your owners manual!!!|||Top it off, you should be fine. If you were only loosing a small amount of oil over a long amount of time then there really isn%26#039;t the possibility of dirt getting into the loose filter...so I would simply top it up to the full line.
What%26#039;s this about fuel filter...? Did you want to know when you should change your fuel filter too? If so, this can largely depend on the quality of gas you are getting for your car...it%26#039;s pretty common to replace a fuel filter every 60,000km - 100,000km (or 40,000m - 60,000miles)|||Oil need to be change based on oil type u have use, more good oil quality as synthetic oil will be more longer to ur next oil change. And oil filter need to be change for every 10000 km and if u change ur oil type and or brand, evasive unlucky reaction from the chemical in the oil. For ur case, if ur last service has include oil changing, then u only need to add same oil to F level.|||If you are ever unsure do the safest and cleanest option available, IE change your oil. Then write down your mileage and put that in the glove box. You should change regular oil every 3 months or 5,000 miles and for synthetic blends change every 4 or 5 months or 6,000+ miles.|||unless you drive under extreme conditions (dust, high heat, heavy traffic, extreme cold, towing) you should only need to change your oil every 8000km. just refill it and keep track of the level, but don%26#039;t worry about it.|||replace oil 5000 miles or before
fuel filter once a year best but depends on where its at most in tank last a long time does need it til you have a problem with it
if its tiem to replace oil change it if not just add to top off|||If you can afford it then do the filter and oil change now then every 3000 miles is the suggested interval for optimal engine life.|||Just top it off. Change the oil when it%26#039;s due again.|||change it every 10,000 miles|||your car manual will tell you when to change oil
How do I change registration for a car that is out of state?
My uncle he lives in Utah and he give me a car but he still making payment so the car will be under his name. I want to know how to change a car registration in ca. Do my uncle have to be in ca to register the car for me or I could register it by myself?|||If he%26#039;s still making payments on the vehicle, it isn%26#039;t his to give away. If your name isn%26#039;t on the title, you aren%26#039;t going to be able to register the vehicle.
How much do they usually charge to change car brakes?
I%26#039;m talking about a regular car, such as a Saturn 2000. I need to have them replaced but I don%26#039;t want to get ripped off. So how much would you say is a reasonable price?
Thanks|||How long is a piece of string? It depends on a variety of factors, including whether you rotors will need to be changed or turned.
So, the charge would be the cost of parts, plus the labor rate multiplied by the time to do the job. If you just need new pads you would be talking about a $100 per axle. If it goes beyond that there would be more parts, rotors alone run $50 or more, plus more time to do to the job.|||its easier and cheaper to do it yourself.
Thanks|||How long is a piece of string? It depends on a variety of factors, including whether you rotors will need to be changed or turned.
So, the charge would be the cost of parts, plus the labor rate multiplied by the time to do the job. If you just need new pads you would be talking about a $100 per axle. If it goes beyond that there would be more parts, rotors alone run $50 or more, plus more time to do to the job.|||its easier and cheaper to do it yourself.
Does anybody know how often we should oil change our car?
i have a 99 honda civic and I was wondering how often should i take my car to oil change %26amp; what happen if i miss one time of oil change? Is that bad for my car? thanks.|||you don%26#039;t have to change it every 3 months or 3,000 miles. you have an older car, so I%26#039;m assuming you have high mileage on it. make sure you get the high mileage oil put in.|||they say every 3,000 miles. If you never change it the oil will get dirty and fail causing major engine damage. I don%26#039;t think I have it done every 3,000 miles myself but do it about 2-3 times a year.|||i change my oil every 3 months or 3000 miles. some people do theirs for a longer time like 6 months or 6000 miles. the more frequent the better. the older the oil, the more contaminants it will obtain. dirty oil will harm your engine, costing more to fix it later on.|||If you take frequent short trips or spend a lot of time ideling in stop and go traffic change your oil every 3 thousand miles. However if you drive mainly on the highways at constant steady speeds you can wait until 75 hundred miles or so.|||every 3, 000 miles, or every three months which ever comes first, but i let mine go to 5,000 miles and have never had a problem
its not bad for your car o miss one time, my grandfather used to go for 8,000 miles, and he never once had a problem with any of his vehicles
hope this helped|||I do mine once a year or every 12000 miles Try not to miss it as oil breaks down and loses its efficiency|||Look, what matters is the amount of oil in the engine more than when it was last changed
The wear from old oil is nothing compared to what happens when it runs low. So if you do nothing else just topping up the oil will avoid a breakdown (never trust the oil warning light but if it comes on, ****!)
I change the oil about once a year which is always a good feeling
To save money I don%26#039;t bother changing the oil filter. My theory is if the engine%26#039;s that bad then a new oil filter won%26#039;t do any good ;)
Checking the gearbox oil is worth doing on a new car or after repairs in the drivetrain.
So if you miss oil change is nothing, as long as level is enough in the engine. Change every 6,000 miles or every year, costs 拢10 / $20 to do this yourself|||I think it%26#039;s hype to change oil every 3000 miles. I have never wasted that much oil in my life of driving. Just look at the oil. If it looks good, it probably is good. If it is gummy, smells burnt , stuff like that, it%26#039;s probably bad. I had a Toyota truck once, %26#039;92 with a V-6. I changed the oil about every 15 to 20 thousand miles. It had 367,000 miles when I sold it. I ran PERFECT. No smoke, great power. But, I always kept it full!!! Though topping off the oil was rare.|||Guessing 20,000 per-year=160,000 Close? stay right 3 and 3 (3 Months/3,00 miles which ever comes first) if you think you should go to a heavier oil, try not to go above 15W-40.
its not bad for your car o miss one time, my grandfather used to go for 8,000 miles, and he never once had a problem with any of his vehicles
hope this helped|||I do mine once a year or every 12000 miles Try not to miss it as oil breaks down and loses its efficiency|||Look, what matters is the amount of oil in the engine more than when it was last changed
The wear from old oil is nothing compared to what happens when it runs low. So if you do nothing else just topping up the oil will avoid a breakdown (never trust the oil warning light but if it comes on, ****!)
I change the oil about once a year which is always a good feeling
To save money I don%26#039;t bother changing the oil filter. My theory is if the engine%26#039;s that bad then a new oil filter won%26#039;t do any good ;)
Checking the gearbox oil is worth doing on a new car or after repairs in the drivetrain.
So if you miss oil change is nothing, as long as level is enough in the engine. Change every 6,000 miles or every year, costs 拢10 / $20 to do this yourself|||I think it%26#039;s hype to change oil every 3000 miles. I have never wasted that much oil in my life of driving. Just look at the oil. If it looks good, it probably is good. If it is gummy, smells burnt , stuff like that, it%26#039;s probably bad. I had a Toyota truck once, %26#039;92 with a V-6. I changed the oil about every 15 to 20 thousand miles. It had 367,000 miles when I sold it. I ran PERFECT. No smoke, great power. But, I always kept it full!!! Though topping off the oil was rare.|||Guessing 20,000 per-year=160,000 Close? stay right 3 and 3 (3 Months/3,00 miles which ever comes first) if you think you should go to a heavier oil, try not to go above 15W-40.
How often do you change car brake disks and /or pads?
I am getting lots of conflicting information from different mechanics. There is noise in the car, and I am not using it much now because of it. I dont want to be charged to much for something I dont need. Would wear and tear distroy brakes in 30K miles (brand new), in heavy trafic?
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
"If you change car insurance companies, can you file a claim on an old accident with the new company?
This was an accident where I accidentally scraped a mailbox, putting an indention into the side of my car...it is about a $1,500 repair; my old insurance had a $500 deductible, but I never filed-and now I%26#039;m wanting to change companies. For lack of a better term, is this like having a pre-existing condition with medical insurance?|||You cannot claim it as you were not covered with the new company at the time of the incident.
Also, a good resource is...
http://www.safelinked.info/go.php?link=i鈥?/a>
Best of luck to you.|||Yes. Most insurance companies photograph your car and log any %26quot;pre existing conditions%26quot;. :)|||Are you kidding? No. Insurance doesn%26#039;t retroactively cover accidents.|||no you cant|||It%26#039;s called prior damage, and the new company will exclude it from coverage.
You know, you can still file a claim with the previous company. Even if you don%26#039;t have an active policy with them now, as long as your policy was in force at the time of the incident, they%26#039;ll still cover it. Depending on how long ago it is, they may reduce the amount of the settlement if the damage has had a chance to get %26#039;old.%26#039;|||Try to deal it out of pocket, otherwise insurance rates will go up much more. You can check how quotes will change here - autoinsurance.undonet.com|||You can file a claim with the old company to have the %26quot;indentation%26quot; fixed. You cannot file a claim with the new company to have old damage repaired. Your new company will not pay to fix damage that happened while another company had it insured
Also, a good resource is...
http://www.safelinked.info/go.php?link=i鈥?/a>
Best of luck to you.|||Yes. Most insurance companies photograph your car and log any %26quot;pre existing conditions%26quot;. :)|||Are you kidding? No. Insurance doesn%26#039;t retroactively cover accidents.|||no you cant|||It%26#039;s called prior damage, and the new company will exclude it from coverage.
You know, you can still file a claim with the previous company. Even if you don%26#039;t have an active policy with them now, as long as your policy was in force at the time of the incident, they%26#039;ll still cover it. Depending on how long ago it is, they may reduce the amount of the settlement if the damage has had a chance to get %26#039;old.%26#039;|||Try to deal it out of pocket, otherwise insurance rates will go up much more. You can check how quotes will change here - autoinsurance.undonet.com|||You can file a claim with the old company to have the %26quot;indentation%26quot; fixed. You cannot file a claim with the new company to have old damage repaired. Your new company will not pay to fix damage that happened while another company had it insured
How should I change My Car Gear from 1st to 2nd smoothly?
I drive an i10 (without tachometer). Problem is that when I change gear from 1st to 2nd, I find whether it is too early or too late to change the gear. I never find the perfect smooth transition point with respect to speed of the car at first gear. Please help!!!|||Does your car have a shift indicator light? many cars without tachs have one. You can get a tach kit for pretty cheap if you wanted one, I suggest switching at about 15 to 20 MPH a lot depends on the gearing of the car though. Just listen to it, if it sounds like its revving to high switch sooner.|||practice is all you need listen to motor feel it dont need a tach should be able to know when with your eyes close listen to your motor first gear is basicy to get you moving you shift just right after moving like 15 to 20 at the most
Can i change my car insurance over to a new car after 2months ?
Is this possible and how does it work ? Can i change it over , let me know please , Thanks
I have car that i only plan on having for 2months and then getting new car , is it easy to change it over to new car and what does it cost ?|||ring your insurance up and give them the details of the new car they will then tell you if your premium has either gone up/down or stayed the same. depending what size engine you have moved up from it should%26#039;nt go up that much unless you have a little 1.1 fiesta and you change to and ST220(MMMMMM MY DREAM CAR)|||No, I think you need to wait the year or the 9 months that you have signed up for.
Give them a call and ask x|||Yes you can i%26#039;ve done it myself|||All you do is call your insurance company and tell them you need to transfer it to a new car. If you are talking about a brand new car your insurance will increase because of the added value of the car.|||Its up to your insurance company. I am with Quinn direct and I bought a new car a month after paying my premium. I rang them and they even gave me a refund because the new car was smaller and the premium was less.|||yes you can i change from a clio to a mini bmw after 4 months , and all i had to pay was an extra 20 quid, if the insurance is cheaper on the new car , you can also get some money back from the insurance , just give your company a ring and they will help you more ,
ps i wasn%26#039;t charged any admin costs either when i changed x xx|||It costs nothing to make the switch but the rates for each car may be different. Yes it is easy, A phone call is all it takes.
I have car that i only plan on having for 2months and then getting new car , is it easy to change it over to new car and what does it cost ?|||ring your insurance up and give them the details of the new car they will then tell you if your premium has either gone up/down or stayed the same. depending what size engine you have moved up from it should%26#039;nt go up that much unless you have a little 1.1 fiesta and you change to and ST220(MMMMMM MY DREAM CAR)|||No, I think you need to wait the year or the 9 months that you have signed up for.
Give them a call and ask x|||Yes you can i%26#039;ve done it myself|||All you do is call your insurance company and tell them you need to transfer it to a new car. If you are talking about a brand new car your insurance will increase because of the added value of the car.|||Its up to your insurance company. I am with Quinn direct and I bought a new car a month after paying my premium. I rang them and they even gave me a refund because the new car was smaller and the premium was less.|||yes you can i change from a clio to a mini bmw after 4 months , and all i had to pay was an extra 20 quid, if the insurance is cheaper on the new car , you can also get some money back from the insurance , just give your company a ring and they will help you more ,
ps i wasn%26#039;t charged any admin costs either when i changed x xx|||It costs nothing to make the switch but the rates for each car may be different. Yes it is easy, A phone call is all it takes.
How soon do I really need to change my car's timing belt?
My car%26#039;s manual recommends a timing belt replaced at 105,000 miles and I am now at about 108,000. How soon do I really need to change the belt? Am I on %26#039;borrowed%26#039; time? Or will I probably be fine for a while since it%26#039;s not an exact science that the belts will fail after 105,000 miles.|||Why would you want to stretch your luck? Do you have any idea what the big buck cost would be should the belt break?
Jot this down as a serious consideration when buying your next car. Don%26#039;t buy a car with old fashioned cost cutting technology such as a timing belt. Timing chains last 250,000 - 500,000 miles.|||Do it soon b/c you don%26#039;t want it to snap and when your car is still running the engine can get major damage. Then it%26#039;ll cost more to fix your car and replace the timing belt.|||Most people (i know) gets them changed around 60 or 70,000.|||um well that depends......some cars will actually last 200k+ on original timing belt......but usually those are cars that are driven well ( no playing just driving.....no sudden stops no spinning tires in parking lots) ect.....
my honest advice would b to change ur timing belt now unless u have the money for a new engine since that is what will need to b replaced if u don%26#039;t..........
i have seen tons of timing belts actually fail pre 105k due to poor maintenance and rough driving....so basically unless ur a little old lady that does 10 under the speed limit and has oil changed at 3k exactly....then ur driving on borrowed time....|||You should do it as soon as possible. If it breaks, it will cause a lot of upper engine damage.
Hope this helps.|||Well that depends on whether your car has an interference or non interference engine. SOME ENGINES WILL GET DAMAGED AND SOME WILL NOT if the timing belt goes bad
If it is an interference engine (where the valves actually open in the same path of the piston) then you absolutely should change your timing belt. If it fails, there will be huge amounts of damage to valves, lifters, etc and require very expensive repairs.
If your car has a non interference engine and the timing belt goes bad, then there will be little additional damage and you would simply get a new belt and maybe water pump installed. In this case you can delay getting it replaced.
If you don%26#039;t know which is which, post the type of car, year and size engine and I will try and follow up to let you know.|||100,000 is an Industry standard. Violation of this is begging to spend many dollars. Some cars OK to lose belt, no problem. Some cars cost a whole lot of money losing belt. All cars are not the same. hope this helps, luv ser
Jot this down as a serious consideration when buying your next car. Don%26#039;t buy a car with old fashioned cost cutting technology such as a timing belt. Timing chains last 250,000 - 500,000 miles.|||Do it soon b/c you don%26#039;t want it to snap and when your car is still running the engine can get major damage. Then it%26#039;ll cost more to fix your car and replace the timing belt.|||Most people (i know) gets them changed around 60 or 70,000.|||um well that depends......some cars will actually last 200k+ on original timing belt......but usually those are cars that are driven well ( no playing just driving.....no sudden stops no spinning tires in parking lots) ect.....
my honest advice would b to change ur timing belt now unless u have the money for a new engine since that is what will need to b replaced if u don%26#039;t..........
i have seen tons of timing belts actually fail pre 105k due to poor maintenance and rough driving....so basically unless ur a little old lady that does 10 under the speed limit and has oil changed at 3k exactly....then ur driving on borrowed time....|||You should do it as soon as possible. If it breaks, it will cause a lot of upper engine damage.
Hope this helps.|||Well that depends on whether your car has an interference or non interference engine. SOME ENGINES WILL GET DAMAGED AND SOME WILL NOT if the timing belt goes bad
If it is an interference engine (where the valves actually open in the same path of the piston) then you absolutely should change your timing belt. If it fails, there will be huge amounts of damage to valves, lifters, etc and require very expensive repairs.
If your car has a non interference engine and the timing belt goes bad, then there will be little additional damage and you would simply get a new belt and maybe water pump installed. In this case you can delay getting it replaced.
If you don%26#039;t know which is which, post the type of car, year and size engine and I will try and follow up to let you know.|||100,000 is an Industry standard. Violation of this is begging to spend many dollars. Some cars OK to lose belt, no problem. Some cars cost a whole lot of money losing belt. All cars are not the same. hope this helps, luv ser
How do you know when to change your Car?
I drive a 1989 Corolla and I was wondering what are the signs or symptoms to know that it is time to change to a diffrent vhiecle. I am not the kind of person who likes to get rid of something that works. I have had this car for a while now and there is nothing wrong with it. Just recently brought a new battery and everything works fine. But I have seen friends that change there car in 5-6 years. They say %26quot;something was worng with it%26quot; and never tell me what it is or I do not understand it.The car is 17 years old. It has only been in one major accident and the rest were minor. (People damaging the back bumper.)
Vhiecle Status: The paint on the car is fine no dents: There is rust that occurs near the wheel.
The A/C, Radio all still work. All the lights in the car still works. I have felt no diffrence in power over the years I have tried it.
The engine is fine a bit dusty and some rusted parts but nothing serious. No holes. The rims are rusted metal coating has fallen off.|||Since it sounds like the car is in expected shape for being 17 years old and you are happy with it and do not feel a need for a new car then drive it till it breaks beyond the cost of repairing it. What I mean that as long as the repairs are normal expenses and you can afford it then keep it going. If the engine dies or the tranny throws a gear and you are looking at major expenses then it would be time to sell car for parts and spend your money towards a new or newer car. You can always have a mechanic check the commpression of the engine and other major parts of the car for any tell tale signs of major issues to come.
If you car in not burning oil, has good compression, the tranny shifts well, the steering is stright and tight and the brakes are solid then you are good to go. The rest of the car may nickel and dime you but it may be less then a new car.|||when you have the money to do so
when repair and maint costs exceed the value of the car / your expendable budget|||Your car probably has little value if sold or traded in due to the fact it is 17 years old. Since you report no big problems I would be willing to stick with the car until problems develop. Those who trade every few years do it for a variety of reasons usually unrelated to performance and reliability.|||when your car starts to burn oil, or if the car is running hotter than normal - not necessarily overheating, but the temperature gauge points higher than you remember.|||Not to be mean, but by chance are you a compulsive collector, or the type who can%26#039;t throw out anything that isn%26#039;t broken? In my family, my mom would get a different car every 2-3 years. She would get a new car because she wanted to change looks. Just like furniture or clothes or hairstyles. We were considered low income for years and then made it into middle class, so the cars got a little nicer, but that%26#039;s it. We didn%26#039;t drive a car for 20 years until a catastrophic failure and then start all over again. That just seems ridiculous to me. Now that I%26#039;m a young adult and am just getting on my feet, I don%26#039;t have much money for a vehicle so I%26#039;ve basically gone from beater to beater in the last 5 years. Some cars were nicer than others. I always keep up on maintenance, but usually I am given a vehicle on it%26#039;s last leg and it ends up dying on me. I have been the last owner of 8 out of the 10 cars I%26#039;ve had in the last 5 years. Personally, I just don%26#039;t see the point in keeping a vehicle for that long unless you don%26#039;t have money to buy another one or unless it%26#039;s a sports car or rare car.|||when repairs cost more than the value of the car is the major one. most people trade in more for the fact of not wanting something old. or they get tired of it after a few years.
beings everything is fine (as far as you know) and your happy with it. keep it till the tires fall off. Toyota%26#039;s are known to last for a long time.|||I have lived around mechanics all my life.. Even my ex husband was a tech.. Toyotas are good vehicles.. I owned a 86 tercel and it lasted me a long time.. of course regular maintence, but other than that if it still gets u from point a to point b then why get rid of it?
Vhiecle Status: The paint on the car is fine no dents: There is rust that occurs near the wheel.
The A/C, Radio all still work. All the lights in the car still works. I have felt no diffrence in power over the years I have tried it.
The engine is fine a bit dusty and some rusted parts but nothing serious. No holes. The rims are rusted metal coating has fallen off.|||Since it sounds like the car is in expected shape for being 17 years old and you are happy with it and do not feel a need for a new car then drive it till it breaks beyond the cost of repairing it. What I mean that as long as the repairs are normal expenses and you can afford it then keep it going. If the engine dies or the tranny throws a gear and you are looking at major expenses then it would be time to sell car for parts and spend your money towards a new or newer car. You can always have a mechanic check the commpression of the engine and other major parts of the car for any tell tale signs of major issues to come.
If you car in not burning oil, has good compression, the tranny shifts well, the steering is stright and tight and the brakes are solid then you are good to go. The rest of the car may nickel and dime you but it may be less then a new car.|||when you have the money to do so
when repair and maint costs exceed the value of the car / your expendable budget|||Your car probably has little value if sold or traded in due to the fact it is 17 years old. Since you report no big problems I would be willing to stick with the car until problems develop. Those who trade every few years do it for a variety of reasons usually unrelated to performance and reliability.|||when your car starts to burn oil, or if the car is running hotter than normal - not necessarily overheating, but the temperature gauge points higher than you remember.|||Not to be mean, but by chance are you a compulsive collector, or the type who can%26#039;t throw out anything that isn%26#039;t broken? In my family, my mom would get a different car every 2-3 years. She would get a new car because she wanted to change looks. Just like furniture or clothes or hairstyles. We were considered low income for years and then made it into middle class, so the cars got a little nicer, but that%26#039;s it. We didn%26#039;t drive a car for 20 years until a catastrophic failure and then start all over again. That just seems ridiculous to me. Now that I%26#039;m a young adult and am just getting on my feet, I don%26#039;t have much money for a vehicle so I%26#039;ve basically gone from beater to beater in the last 5 years. Some cars were nicer than others. I always keep up on maintenance, but usually I am given a vehicle on it%26#039;s last leg and it ends up dying on me. I have been the last owner of 8 out of the 10 cars I%26#039;ve had in the last 5 years. Personally, I just don%26#039;t see the point in keeping a vehicle for that long unless you don%26#039;t have money to buy another one or unless it%26#039;s a sports car or rare car.|||when repairs cost more than the value of the car is the major one. most people trade in more for the fact of not wanting something old. or they get tired of it after a few years.
beings everything is fine (as far as you know) and your happy with it. keep it till the tires fall off. Toyota%26#039;s are known to last for a long time.|||I have lived around mechanics all my life.. Even my ex husband was a tech.. Toyotas are good vehicles.. I owned a 86 tercel and it lasted me a long time.. of course regular maintence, but other than that if it still gets u from point a to point b then why get rid of it?
Change tires - Is there a need to use a tire stoppe to stabilise the car?
I just wonder if I need to buy a pair of tire stopppers to put them at back of car tires, before changing the other tires.
I will change my car at my driveway, which has a slight incline.|||use blocks, even with an automatic car in park it can still roll when one drive wheel is lifted... and theirs no reason you cant use them|||it%26#039;s always safest to abide this idea. however, i never have as you can either employ the drive train %26amp;/or parking brake as usually there are the other 3 tires on the pavement. if it%26#039;s a terribly steep incline, some kind of chock/block is really a good idea.|||common sense......|||You dont need to buy any. just use a block of wood or a couple of bricks. try to rock the car a little before you lift it to make sure its not gonna crush you|||Agree with all the above. If your worried, just buy them for peace of mind.
I will change my car at my driveway, which has a slight incline.|||use blocks, even with an automatic car in park it can still roll when one drive wheel is lifted... and theirs no reason you cant use them|||it%26#039;s always safest to abide this idea. however, i never have as you can either employ the drive train %26amp;/or parking brake as usually there are the other 3 tires on the pavement. if it%26#039;s a terribly steep incline, some kind of chock/block is really a good idea.|||common sense......|||You dont need to buy any. just use a block of wood or a couple of bricks. try to rock the car a little before you lift it to make sure its not gonna crush you|||Agree with all the above. If your worried, just buy them for peace of mind.
Do I have to change my car license plate, car registration when I move to another state?
just moved to North Carolina from California. I need to renew my car registration soon, can I do it through California or do I have to renew it through North Carolina? Also, do I have to change my license plate to North Carolina eventually?|||If you intend to stay and live in N.C. you will have to change your registration and title and license plates. If you are only going to be in N.C. for a short time there may be something that will allow you to keep your old stuff until you go back. You would need to contact the local DMV in N.C. to see about that. Usually a state allows you 30 days to get all of your vehicle stuff done before you can be issued a ticket. You might check with the local DMV office and make sure N.C. allows the 30 days. They may not allow that long. I am not up to date on N.C. policy but you may just have to turn over your old driver%26#039;s license and get a N.C. one and just take the vision test and not the driving test. I am not sure about that though. You will need to contact them and see how they do that.|||Since you are now a resident of North Carolina, you need to change your vehicle registration and driver%26#039;s license to North Carolina. Yes, you will have to get North Carolina plates for your car.|||You need to obtain a NC drivers license and register your car in NC within a certain amount of time. It may be 10 days, it may be 30 days. Check with the NC DMV for specifics.
How much does it cost to change a car's AC filter?
My friend just did a tune up on his car and his ac is soo cold, works great. Mine on the other hand is not that cold. When and how often are you suppose to change the filter? And how much does it usually cost? Thanks.|||Usually it is not a filter that simply needs changing for any AC system.. the entire system needs to be checked for the freon charge .. or R16 charge..
A check/recharge typically costs about $50 assuming that there is not anything too wrong with the system|||Do you know what kind of car you have? That would be useful information to post with your question. The best way to get the exact cost would be to call your local dealer and ask them.
A check/recharge typically costs about $50 assuming that there is not anything too wrong with the system|||Do you know what kind of car you have? That would be useful information to post with your question. The best way to get the exact cost would be to call your local dealer and ask them.
Can i change my car insurance deductible and and then submit the accident?
I just got hit and don%26#039;t know by who. the good thing about it is that my car is full cover but my deductible is of 1000. I don%26#039;t have the money and so am wondering if it can be possible for me to change my deducible to 500 and then claim the hit. What%26#039;s the best thing for me to do!|||You could do that, then you could go to jail.
Trying to cheat the insurance company is fraud and a felony.
If a police report was filed the insurance company will see the correct date of the accident, and see that you changed your deductible afterwords. You would still be charged the $1000 deductible.
Just be glad you do not have to cover the entire cost of the repairs|||It is called insurance fraud. You could go to jail is it worth it?|||That would be fraud, they will know something is up if you make a claim right away or if there is rust around where you were hit when they go to repair it. If you wanted a lower deductible you should have purchased one with you insurance policy.|||see if you can have the repairs done on your own before you make a claim. Sometime it is cheaper to pay for it yourself.|||You can%26#039;t change what happened in the past. Don%26#039;t you think the insurance company would figure this out when they got your claim? Yes you can lower your deductible, but don%26#039;t do it until after you submit this claim.
Trying to cheat the insurance company is fraud and a felony.
If a police report was filed the insurance company will see the correct date of the accident, and see that you changed your deductible afterwords. You would still be charged the $1000 deductible.
Just be glad you do not have to cover the entire cost of the repairs|||It is called insurance fraud. You could go to jail is it worth it?|||That would be fraud, they will know something is up if you make a claim right away or if there is rust around where you were hit when they go to repair it. If you wanted a lower deductible you should have purchased one with you insurance policy.|||see if you can have the repairs done on your own before you make a claim. Sometime it is cheaper to pay for it yourself.|||You can%26#039;t change what happened in the past. Don%26#039;t you think the insurance company would figure this out when they got your claim? Yes you can lower your deductible, but don%26#039;t do it until after you submit this claim.
Why would my dog's behavior in the car change suddenly?
My dog loves car rides. She runs out and jumps in the car, and even pouts when she can%26#039;t go.
All of a sudden, she has started shivering and panting while in the car. At times she also whines and jumps around a lot. I have has her for 2 years and this is new behavior. Any ideas why the sudden change in behavior? Should I take her to a vet? She only does this in the car.|||Well, it could be hormonal changes if you got her as a puppy and she%26#039;s just now turning two. It could be that she remembers some traumatic experience after riding in the car (i.e. a trip to the vet that she didn%26#039;t particularly like, i.e having her spayed). It could be car sickness and her way to avoid vomiting. If she was adopted, she might be fearful that you%26#039;re going to %26quot;drop/abandon her%26quot;.
I don%26#039;t really see a need to take her to the Vet for this specifically, but you might mention it to the Vet during her next visit; they might suggest trying Dramamine a half-hour or so before a car ride (won%26#039;t hurt, but get the proper dosage from the Vet) to eliminate the most probable, car sickness.
Good Luck!
- Tug
Samy mentioned something you might think about...dogs have a much greater sense of smell that we do...could there be some exhaust leakage into the car that she can smell and you can%26#039;t?|||Of course that%26#039;s a possibility, but I doubt it. Exhaust leakage (CO) might affect a dog more quickly and, provoke irrational behaviour, but they are also more likely to alert you to an unusual smell, or feeling than you might not notice.
|||Maybe she got cold or heard a noise that humans can%26#039;t hear?|||She sounds either overly stressed or overly excited.
you need to do some desensitizing.|||Amy,I%26#039;ve had dogs all of my life and I am an adult and there is one thing that I do know as far as dogs being in cars,they have to have a window cracked at all times so they can stick their noses out,I have read that it has something to do with their equilibrium and ears,I don%26#039;t know if you have had the windows rolled up in the car,but if you have you may want to try this and see if this could be your dogs problem,I hope this helps you out.|||Ask Ceasar Milan the dog whisperer|||Maybe there is something in the car that she cant stand(that she doenst like).And maybe when she is getting in the car get her some toys.
All of a sudden, she has started shivering and panting while in the car. At times she also whines and jumps around a lot. I have has her for 2 years and this is new behavior. Any ideas why the sudden change in behavior? Should I take her to a vet? She only does this in the car.|||Well, it could be hormonal changes if you got her as a puppy and she%26#039;s just now turning two. It could be that she remembers some traumatic experience after riding in the car (i.e. a trip to the vet that she didn%26#039;t particularly like, i.e having her spayed). It could be car sickness and her way to avoid vomiting. If she was adopted, she might be fearful that you%26#039;re going to %26quot;drop/abandon her%26quot;.
I don%26#039;t really see a need to take her to the Vet for this specifically, but you might mention it to the Vet during her next visit; they might suggest trying Dramamine a half-hour or so before a car ride (won%26#039;t hurt, but get the proper dosage from the Vet) to eliminate the most probable, car sickness.
Good Luck!
- Tug
Samy mentioned something you might think about...dogs have a much greater sense of smell that we do...could there be some exhaust leakage into the car that she can smell and you can%26#039;t?|||Of course that%26#039;s a possibility, but I doubt it. Exhaust leakage (CO) might affect a dog more quickly and, provoke irrational behaviour, but they are also more likely to alert you to an unusual smell, or feeling than you might not notice.
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|||Maybe she got cold or heard a noise that humans can%26#039;t hear?|||She sounds either overly stressed or overly excited.
you need to do some desensitizing.|||Amy,I%26#039;ve had dogs all of my life and I am an adult and there is one thing that I do know as far as dogs being in cars,they have to have a window cracked at all times so they can stick their noses out,I have read that it has something to do with their equilibrium and ears,I don%26#039;t know if you have had the windows rolled up in the car,but if you have you may want to try this and see if this could be your dogs problem,I hope this helps you out.|||Ask Ceasar Milan the dog whisperer|||Maybe there is something in the car that she cant stand(that she doenst like).And maybe when she is getting in the car get her some toys.
Can my car break if I change the battery?
I need to change my car%26#039;s battery but some people tell me that the computer in it (whatever that is) can go haywire or even break when I change the battery, Is this true??? I own a 2005 Chevy Aveo.|||The only thing that can happen is you can fry the diodes in the alternator if you hook up the battery backwards. This will mean your battery will go dead in a few days of sitting or a few hours of driving.
The computers are disconnected from the battery as long as the ignition switch is off. Don%26#039;t put the battery in with the car powered up.|||no, no! they are wrong!. you can change the battery anytime!. it wont mess anything up, unless you hook up the battery terminals wrong.|||there is no problem for you to change your battery. Always remove the negative battery cable first, then the positive. the reason being, is that if you accidentally touch the positive cable or terminal to ground, you can short the battery out and blow fuses or fusible links. And as always, make sure you hook up the cables correctly. Anybody can change a battery. It can%26#039;t be too hard, the guys at Autozone replace batteries all the time, instead of waiting on people trying to buy parts at the counter.|||I don%26#039;t know about the computer, but repair shops have been using backup thru the lighter socket for more than 20 years. Problems with the airbags going off I figure they have cured, but you never know by guessing... losing time/ presets on radio are minor...
I would call the dealership and check about that %26#039;puter. Any wayu to supply power with jumper cables while you do changeout?
The computers are disconnected from the battery as long as the ignition switch is off. Don%26#039;t put the battery in with the car powered up.|||no, no! they are wrong!. you can change the battery anytime!. it wont mess anything up, unless you hook up the battery terminals wrong.|||there is no problem for you to change your battery. Always remove the negative battery cable first, then the positive. the reason being, is that if you accidentally touch the positive cable or terminal to ground, you can short the battery out and blow fuses or fusible links. And as always, make sure you hook up the cables correctly. Anybody can change a battery. It can%26#039;t be too hard, the guys at Autozone replace batteries all the time, instead of waiting on people trying to buy parts at the counter.|||I don%26#039;t know about the computer, but repair shops have been using backup thru the lighter socket for more than 20 years. Problems with the airbags going off I figure they have cured, but you never know by guessing... losing time/ presets on radio are minor...
I would call the dealership and check about that %26#039;puter. Any wayu to supply power with jumper cables while you do changeout?
How to change car battery?
I changed the battery in my car (97 mercury tracer)and when I connect the terminals my car horn continuously blows and wont stop. I dont have any kind of alarm remote(bought car used) and im stuck. I have no idea how to stop it and get my car running again. please help! thanks|||pull wire off horn would be easy and really shouldnt never buy a used car that you have not crank and drove or check for problems so easy to find horn remove wire then crank car|||Some of those cars had a factory alarm system. Try connecting the battery and then using the key lock and unlock the drivers door. This will turn the alarm off it is a factory alarm system.|||are you sure you have the terminals connected to the right diodes? Also, check your fuses...make sure they are all in snug. Did you buy the right voltage? Perhaps you have to much power and your car is getting a power surge, making your horn blow. sorry, it%26#039;s a bit funny :)|||connect alarm after connecting battery|||are you sure i doesn%26#039;t have a factory alarm?did you get the remotes for the doors when you bought the car?unhook the horn for now and if it wont start the you could have a factory alarm and it wont let you start the car with out shutting it off then you will have to call the dealer and get a remote to shut it off.
What could happen if you never change your car's spark plugs?
All I know is that your car can loose performance, but is that the worst of it? Can anything be damaged if you don%26#039;t change your car%26#039;s spark plugs?|||your car wont start.|||Well for starters, yes your car would lose performance, along with that you will have worse off gas mileage. That in turn can make your catalytic converter go bad, because it would be overwhelmed with unburned fuel (hydrocarbons). I imagine it can damage other ignition parts over time such as your ignition coil. Also if you never replace your spark plugs they can get worn to the point where the engine becomes difficult to start or to where it turns over but does not start.|||car stops running. The sparks that jump accross a spark plug only happen a million or so times and at 80,000Volts. If a lightning bolt hit the same spot on the ground the same number of times, you would have a molten lava in there and see all the way to China.|||Eventually your car is not going to run because your spark plugs will stop firing.|||a standard spark plug is good for at least 30,000 miles
What you do is adjust the gap about every 5,000 miles
There is no need to change them as often as most people do
Always use dielectric grease on the connectors for better performance..|||We%26#039;ll your %26quot;plugs%26quot; will wear down so far as to not fire anymore, and that my friend as Mccain speaks And hope he doesn%26#039;t win..... will leave you stranded somewhere you wont want to get stranded.
What you do is adjust the gap about every 5,000 miles
There is no need to change them as often as most people do
Always use dielectric grease on the connectors for better performance..|||We%26#039;ll your %26quot;plugs%26quot; will wear down so far as to not fire anymore, and that my friend as Mccain speaks And hope he doesn%26#039;t win..... will leave you stranded somewhere you wont want to get stranded.
How can a recent widower change a car loan that's in her late husband name only?
Do she need to get his children from his first marriage to sign off since his name is the only one on the car loan or change I make the change without them?|||show proof of insurance|||The person named as the Executor of the Estate has the power to do this as long as they have proof and the person who is assuming the loan has decent enough credit to put it in their name. The finance charge will probably change because it will be going off the new debtor%26#039;s credit.|||You do have a problem , but you could have the car loan change to your name,provided that you can show that you can pay the monthly payment plus interest|||As long as you%26#039;ve got the death certificate you can take care of all of his estate issues.
I%26#039;m sorry about your loss.
I%26#039;m sorry about your loss.
How do I change a car plugin?
How do I change a car plug in into a wall plug in. Like just the end of the wire.|||Electrical items have voltage, current and VA or watts rating. If you do not know enough about it you are bound to blow a fuse or burn it. So do not play with it and go to an electrical or electronics store and buy the right stuff.|||huh|||try and ask that again
How hard is it to change a car Battery?
The battery in my car died and I don%26#039;t want to have it towed somewhere just so someone else can change the battery. Is it relativeley easy enough for me to do in my parking lot?|||You can definately do it! You%26#039;ll need either the correct size socket or an open-ended adjustable wrench. Pliers work in a pinch...
Disconnect the negative battery cable (the black one), then the positive (red one). Just loosen the bolt that holds the cable down against the battery post, then lift the cable up and off.
Lift the battery out (there may be a screw or two holding it down near the bottom), and set the new one in it%26#039;s place.
While you have the battery out, you may want to take a stiff brush and brush the white/green corrosion off the cable ends.
Make sure you have the new battery facing the same way that the old one was. You don%26#039;t want the wrong cable on the post!
Then reconnect the battery cables in the reverse order (positive - red first, then negative - black).
If there were any screws near the bottom of the battery, make sure you replace those.
Congratulations!|||Great answer!
|||its ****** easy. disconnect negetive first then positive next take out battery then put new battery BUT make sure its the right size for your car.|||Yes, you will nedd a pair of pliers
on the top or side of the battery depending on the battery the 2 wires are bolted to the battery if the wires are on the side then they are small bolts they come all the way out if they are on tom, then just loosen them after you loosen them turn the wire where it meets the battery and it will turn and you can slide the connector off of the battery. Once it is unhooked you can pick the battery up just make sure there isn%26#039;t any thing else holding the battery to the car like a strap or plastic brace. It will be heavy don%26#039;t hurt your self.|||It%26#039;s easy. But the battery might be heavy. It could weigh about 20 lbs. First, you need tools, like a wrench. Then, undo the negative post, followed by the positive side. Then lift up the battery, and remove it from the car. Put the new one in the same place, and connect the positive cable, tighten it, then connect the negative cable, and tighten. That%26#039;s it.|||If you remove the NEGITIVE [-] cable first, and reconnect the NEGITIVE [-] cable last you should be able to get it done without too much trouble and NO DAMAGE TO YOUR SYSTEM!!|||easy just unscrew two bolts,and reconnect|||The positive wire is usualy red and the negative is black|||easy peasy.
remove the connectors. lift out the old battery. put the new one in (make sure it%26#039;s the same type). reconnect wires (good idea to clean them first). you%26#039;re done.
pay CAREFUL attention to which wire went to the positive post and which went to the negative, so you can hook it up the same way.|||yes it is,,just remove the holder that holds it down,,then remove the cables from it,,clean them good before you put the new one back in,,and put the new one back in,,be care full and don%26#039;t over tighten the cables,,you can damage them if you do,,and that is about all there is too it,,i hope this helps,,i own a repair shop,,and do this a lot,,just take your time ,,you will do fine on it,,good luck with it,,i hope this helps.,,also be sure and put the cables back o the right way,,positive to positive,,and negative to negative.|||not that hard darling!! cant a cute little thing like you get your boyfriend to do it for you???????????????????
Disconnect the negative battery cable (the black one), then the positive (red one). Just loosen the bolt that holds the cable down against the battery post, then lift the cable up and off.
Lift the battery out (there may be a screw or two holding it down near the bottom), and set the new one in it%26#039;s place.
While you have the battery out, you may want to take a stiff brush and brush the white/green corrosion off the cable ends.
Make sure you have the new battery facing the same way that the old one was. You don%26#039;t want the wrong cable on the post!
Then reconnect the battery cables in the reverse order (positive - red first, then negative - black).
If there were any screws near the bottom of the battery, make sure you replace those.
Congratulations!|||Great answer!
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|||its ****** easy. disconnect negetive first then positive next take out battery then put new battery BUT make sure its the right size for your car.|||Yes, you will nedd a pair of pliers
on the top or side of the battery depending on the battery the 2 wires are bolted to the battery if the wires are on the side then they are small bolts they come all the way out if they are on tom, then just loosen them after you loosen them turn the wire where it meets the battery and it will turn and you can slide the connector off of the battery. Once it is unhooked you can pick the battery up just make sure there isn%26#039;t any thing else holding the battery to the car like a strap or plastic brace. It will be heavy don%26#039;t hurt your self.|||It%26#039;s easy. But the battery might be heavy. It could weigh about 20 lbs. First, you need tools, like a wrench. Then, undo the negative post, followed by the positive side. Then lift up the battery, and remove it from the car. Put the new one in the same place, and connect the positive cable, tighten it, then connect the negative cable, and tighten. That%26#039;s it.|||If you remove the NEGITIVE [-] cable first, and reconnect the NEGITIVE [-] cable last you should be able to get it done without too much trouble and NO DAMAGE TO YOUR SYSTEM!!|||easy just unscrew two bolts,and reconnect|||The positive wire is usualy red and the negative is black|||easy peasy.
remove the connectors. lift out the old battery. put the new one in (make sure it%26#039;s the same type). reconnect wires (good idea to clean them first). you%26#039;re done.
pay CAREFUL attention to which wire went to the positive post and which went to the negative, so you can hook it up the same way.|||yes it is,,just remove the holder that holds it down,,then remove the cables from it,,clean them good before you put the new one back in,,and put the new one back in,,be care full and don%26#039;t over tighten the cables,,you can damage them if you do,,and that is about all there is too it,,i hope this helps,,i own a repair shop,,and do this a lot,,just take your time ,,you will do fine on it,,good luck with it,,i hope this helps.,,also be sure and put the cables back o the right way,,positive to positive,,and negative to negative.|||not that hard darling!! cant a cute little thing like you get your boyfriend to do it for you???????????????????
What are the precautions to change a car battery?
Dear all,
First of all, how long does a car battery last? Is it climate dependent?
Next, I plan to change the battery myself and I want to know if there%26#039;s any precaution e.g. sequential removal/connecting of battery terminals (like the ones we read when jump starting a dead battery)? What tools do I need? Will a small wrench do?|||A regular car battery usually lasts 3-4 years. It%26#039;s pretty simple to switch out for most vehicles. I would in the very least have a 3/4 ratchet and socket set and a couple of flat head and phillips head screwdrivers.
Beyond however it%26#039;s mounted in the vehicle there are two posts. Just disconnect the negative and the positive and install the new battery.
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION THAT YOU DO NOT TOUCH ONE OF YOUR TOOLS OR ANYTHING METAL TO BOTH THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON YOUR BATTERY.|||Dear Julian C,
Car batteries do not have a specific lifespan, but most last from 2 - 5 years. Yes, climate plays a part in their durability. Extreme heat and cold will shorten their life.
Changing a battery is easy. Make sure to not wear metal objects like watches, rings, etc, to avoid any possible short circuit or electric shock. Remove the negative terminal first with a proper sized wrench (10mm is a good start). Consider wearing gloves for protection from battery acid spills. Inspect each battery cable for splitting cases or other damage and replace if needed. Make sure the new battery is secure in the car and not sitting loose, as any jostling or bumping can damage it. Spray on some battery terminal protectant, or coat the terminal in petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion from forming.
That%26#039;s it. Keep the battery warranty handy in case you need to submit a claim.
Regards.|||If your car is 1996 or newer, the first thing you%26#039;ll need is a %26quot;setting saver%26quot; so that you don%26#039;t need to have the radio security code.
1. Get some latex gloves and eye protection.
2. Install setting saver.
3. remove NEGATIVE terminal first. Normally black, but you should be able to follow it to the engine block.
4. remove POSITIVE, normally red. A big cable should go to the starter.
5. take the old battery out. watch your fingers.
6. put new battery in car, fasten the battery hold-down to keep the battery from tipping over and causing a fire.
7. use wire brush to clean terminals and battery posts.
8. Install POSITIVE first, tighten terminal so you can%26#039;t wiggle it.
9. Install NEGATIVE last, tighten also.
10. Put some vaseline or grease on the terminals to reduce corrosion.
11. remove setting saver. Start car.
NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW TOOLS TO TOUCH POSITIVE TERMINAL TO THE CAR, YOU WILL CREATE SPARKS AND COULD CAUSE A FIRE. Eye protection is smart, because under some circumstances, sparks could cause the hydrogen gas generated by a battery to explode.|||A couple weeks of real cold weather annually (30-40 below @ night) usually tells you that a good battery will be reliable about 4 years.
Tools may vary. Match tool to the fastener. Always look away before the 2nd final connection to avoid potential explosion getting in your face.|||Make sure when you are installing it, you put the hot (red) wire in place before the ground (Black). The opposite applies to removing a battery (black gets disconnected first). Also, when installing or uninstalling, keep track of where the ground wire is, you don%26#039;t want it to make contact with the frame and arc unintentionally.
You might need a ratchet with a drive adapter to remove the block holding the battery in place.|||If you are not sure of your battery condition go to auto supply and they will test it free.
Pay attention---remove NEGATIVE battery terminal FIRST.
Quite often a weak battery condition can be caused by dirty battery terminals.
The life of a battery can depend on many conditions including climate.
http://www.ehow.com/how_112575_change-ca鈥?/a>|||Extreme temperature ( hot or cold ) reduce the life of a battery.
A car battery can last a very long time, but in most situations, 3 to 6 years is what you%26#039;ll get.
I would recommend stopping at a Batteries Plus store if you have one near you ( http://www.batteriesplus.com )
They can either replace the battery for you or explain to you how to do it properly. They%26#039;ll also take your old battery for recycling on the stop. It would be a great way to learn how to do that from a professional.... for free.|||climate has alot to do with how long a battier willl last along with the kind you by the cheaper the shourter so get one that is atlest midrage for a longer life exp and make sure your battier is clamped down for the bouncing may be fun with your girl frend is deth for your battier when you change dis coneted the neg first then the possative when reconeting revirs proses and you are done
First of all, how long does a car battery last? Is it climate dependent?
Next, I plan to change the battery myself and I want to know if there%26#039;s any precaution e.g. sequential removal/connecting of battery terminals (like the ones we read when jump starting a dead battery)? What tools do I need? Will a small wrench do?|||A regular car battery usually lasts 3-4 years. It%26#039;s pretty simple to switch out for most vehicles. I would in the very least have a 3/4 ratchet and socket set and a couple of flat head and phillips head screwdrivers.
Beyond however it%26#039;s mounted in the vehicle there are two posts. Just disconnect the negative and the positive and install the new battery.
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION THAT YOU DO NOT TOUCH ONE OF YOUR TOOLS OR ANYTHING METAL TO BOTH THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON YOUR BATTERY.|||Dear Julian C,
Car batteries do not have a specific lifespan, but most last from 2 - 5 years. Yes, climate plays a part in their durability. Extreme heat and cold will shorten their life.
Changing a battery is easy. Make sure to not wear metal objects like watches, rings, etc, to avoid any possible short circuit or electric shock. Remove the negative terminal first with a proper sized wrench (10mm is a good start). Consider wearing gloves for protection from battery acid spills. Inspect each battery cable for splitting cases or other damage and replace if needed. Make sure the new battery is secure in the car and not sitting loose, as any jostling or bumping can damage it. Spray on some battery terminal protectant, or coat the terminal in petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion from forming.
That%26#039;s it. Keep the battery warranty handy in case you need to submit a claim.
Regards.|||If your car is 1996 or newer, the first thing you%26#039;ll need is a %26quot;setting saver%26quot; so that you don%26#039;t need to have the radio security code.
1. Get some latex gloves and eye protection.
2. Install setting saver.
3. remove NEGATIVE terminal first. Normally black, but you should be able to follow it to the engine block.
4. remove POSITIVE, normally red. A big cable should go to the starter.
5. take the old battery out. watch your fingers.
6. put new battery in car, fasten the battery hold-down to keep the battery from tipping over and causing a fire.
7. use wire brush to clean terminals and battery posts.
8. Install POSITIVE first, tighten terminal so you can%26#039;t wiggle it.
9. Install NEGATIVE last, tighten also.
10. Put some vaseline or grease on the terminals to reduce corrosion.
11. remove setting saver. Start car.
NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW TOOLS TO TOUCH POSITIVE TERMINAL TO THE CAR, YOU WILL CREATE SPARKS AND COULD CAUSE A FIRE. Eye protection is smart, because under some circumstances, sparks could cause the hydrogen gas generated by a battery to explode.|||A couple weeks of real cold weather annually (30-40 below @ night) usually tells you that a good battery will be reliable about 4 years.
Tools may vary. Match tool to the fastener. Always look away before the 2nd final connection to avoid potential explosion getting in your face.|||Make sure when you are installing it, you put the hot (red) wire in place before the ground (Black). The opposite applies to removing a battery (black gets disconnected first). Also, when installing or uninstalling, keep track of where the ground wire is, you don%26#039;t want it to make contact with the frame and arc unintentionally.
You might need a ratchet with a drive adapter to remove the block holding the battery in place.|||If you are not sure of your battery condition go to auto supply and they will test it free.
Pay attention---remove NEGATIVE battery terminal FIRST.
Quite often a weak battery condition can be caused by dirty battery terminals.
The life of a battery can depend on many conditions including climate.
http://www.ehow.com/how_112575_change-ca鈥?/a>|||Extreme temperature ( hot or cold ) reduce the life of a battery.
A car battery can last a very long time, but in most situations, 3 to 6 years is what you%26#039;ll get.
I would recommend stopping at a Batteries Plus store if you have one near you ( http://www.batteriesplus.com )
They can either replace the battery for you or explain to you how to do it properly. They%26#039;ll also take your old battery for recycling on the stop. It would be a great way to learn how to do that from a professional.... for free.|||climate has alot to do with how long a battier willl last along with the kind you by the cheaper the shourter so get one that is atlest midrage for a longer life exp and make sure your battier is clamped down for the bouncing may be fun with your girl frend is deth for your battier when you change dis coneted the neg first then the possative when reconeting revirs proses and you are done
Is it possible to change a car from manual to automatic?
I want to get an old car, but I am not a fan of automatic and having to switch the gears. So is it possible to change it to manual?|||EVERY THING IS POSSIBLE AT A COST :)
by the time you buy a gearbox and you pay labour it will turn up to be cheaper it you replace the car.
good luck mate|||yes but you have to also out in the clutch pedal and make sure you hook up the safety switches|||Yes you can... but unless you do it yourself,it will cost more than the car is worth and chances are doing it yourself will still cost more than the car is worth.|||Simple Answer: Yes
Complex answer: Require at least 48 hour solid work you have to remove the existing manual transmission, shift linkage, and peddles.
Then install The automatic peddle shift linkage, and possibly additional electronic then the automatic transmission and torque converter, may also require a new drive shaft.
I have likely left out quite a few steps but you get the idea.
by the time you buy a gearbox and you pay labour it will turn up to be cheaper it you replace the car.
good luck mate|||yes but you have to also out in the clutch pedal and make sure you hook up the safety switches|||Yes you can... but unless you do it yourself,it will cost more than the car is worth and chances are doing it yourself will still cost more than the car is worth.|||Simple Answer: Yes
Complex answer: Require at least 48 hour solid work you have to remove the existing manual transmission, shift linkage, and peddles.
Then install The automatic peddle shift linkage, and possibly additional electronic then the automatic transmission and torque converter, may also require a new drive shaft.
I have likely left out quite a few steps but you get the idea.
How much does a solicitor charge to change a car ownership in Spain?
Has anyone recently bought a car in Spain - if so, how much did your solicitor charge to change the ownership documents?|||Don%26#039;t use a solicitor, use a Gestor. They are all over the place. Just look for a gestoria. They are like accountants. I lived and ran my own business in spain, the fee is usually a percentage of the value of the car plus tax so depending on the car 200-500 euro. Gestors do this for a living, they charge anywhere from 30 euros, cheaper than a solicitor.|||300鈧?and that was four months ago through a garage, and still haven%26#039;t gotten the papers yet! I have to go back a third time to collect another justificante, The garage said they passed everything onto a gestor to deal with it|||Just changed one in Murcia. If you have the log book you are ok but if not it%26#039;s a nightmare. A Gestoria will do the job but you have to take the car for an ITV ( MOT ) and they are thorough, if your car is british you will need a new set of headlights as they won%26#039;t accept the stick on triangles and watch out for the tow bar if you have one fitted as their Spec%26#039;s are different. Good Luck|||300 euros taxes included for a rover 2.0
I understand that the taxes vary with the size of the car engine.
I understand that the taxes vary with the size of the car engine.
How often do you need to change your car tires?
I have been using Dunlop Ultra-high performance tires on my car for about 40 thousand miles, but recently i feel like the tread on the tires isn%26#039;t as strong as it used to be. How often you guys change your car tires?|||It depends on which model of tire you have. Most likely you have a 40,000 mile tire, and its abput time to change them. there are wear indicators built into the tread of your car, they will show up as solid %26quot;lines%26quot; across the width of your tire. You can also use a penny. Place the penny with the top of Lincoln;s head upside down, if you can see the top of his head, they are due to be changed. I have Dunlop Signatures on my Neon, and they are 75,000 mile tires, and they cost a little over 75 bucks a piece. Not bad considering the mileage and the handling.|||Take a penny and turn it upside down. Stick it into the groove in your tire tread. If it%26#039;s below (technically above since it%26#039;s inverted) Lincoln%26#039;s head then the tread is pretty much dead.|||Tires have wear indicators built in. If the tread gets down to the bars that cross the tire, its time to replace it. Or check for pocket change and use the penny trick. If you see bulges or metal sticking out from the edges of the tire, then its past time to replace it!|||Take a penny and hold it with Lincoln facing you. Put the penny in the tire treads upside down. If you can see all of Lincoln%26#039;s head, you need new tires.
This is a way to check the tread depth.|||A good indication of tire replacement is tread wear. If tread wear is 1-2mm it%26#039;s time to change the tire.|||When theres uneven wear or thin treads.|||Check them with a penny and if lincolns head is above the tread time for new tires.|||Don%26#039;t do the penny test, it is not always right!
I replace my tires every 2 years or so. Even if you buy tires with a 80,000 mile warranty, you probably won%26#039;t get 80,000 miles out of them. When you notice a change in the way your vehicle is driving, then it is a good idea to start saving up beacuse you need new tires. I bought (and I will never do this again) General AmeriG4s. I think they had something like a 50,000 mile warranty, but after a year, they were junk. I was hydroplaning whenever it was raining out, I couldn%26#039;t take curves as fast, and I was sliding all over the road. They still had at least 50% of the tread left, but the tires just melted to the road when it was hot. I saved up and bought the new Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads. So far, I love them! I also just rotated them today and I compared the front to back and they are identical. There is no visible wear and I am a pretty spirited driver...if you know what I mean! They handled great in the winter, handle awesome on wet or dry pavement, and they look pretty bad a**.
Check out this site for great prices on new tires...
www.tirerack.com
I bought the tires here, and took them to my mechanic and he put them on my rims. It was still cheaper to do it that way rather than to buy the tires from him. I got the tires for $84 a tire and he wanted to charge me $130 before he would have even marked them up! Definately check out this site.|||look for the wear bars. these are the little bars that go across the low spots in the tread. if they are even with the tread, it%26#039;s time to hit the tire shop. on high performance tires, 40k seems like about time to buy some replacements.|||Depends, I get 30-36,000 from my ultra high tires, I%26#039;ve tried BF Goodrich, Goodyear Eagle, Falken FK451. Even with proper air pressure and rotating they never seem to wear exactly evenly. So, I change all 4 whenever the tread is completely worn down in one spot like on one side, or if the tread is worn way down and rainy season is approaching, tread is very important in wet weather and new tires grip so much better on wet roads. Also, if the steering wheel is shaky or the tires just don%26#039;t feel right, I change them. 40,000 miles is actually quite good for ultra high tires.|||take your vehicle to a service center and have the tires checked to see if they will pass inspection, they usually take a penny and stick it between the grooves and if the tread doesn%26#039;t stick up and touch Lincoln%26#039;s%26#039; head then it is time for new tires|||when they start to get flat|||Change when the threads are less than 2 mm ( 1/12 inch) deep or if they are more than 6 years old.
This is a way to check the tread depth.|||A good indication of tire replacement is tread wear. If tread wear is 1-2mm it%26#039;s time to change the tire.|||When theres uneven wear or thin treads.|||Check them with a penny and if lincolns head is above the tread time for new tires.|||Don%26#039;t do the penny test, it is not always right!
I replace my tires every 2 years or so. Even if you buy tires with a 80,000 mile warranty, you probably won%26#039;t get 80,000 miles out of them. When you notice a change in the way your vehicle is driving, then it is a good idea to start saving up beacuse you need new tires. I bought (and I will never do this again) General AmeriG4s. I think they had something like a 50,000 mile warranty, but after a year, they were junk. I was hydroplaning whenever it was raining out, I couldn%26#039;t take curves as fast, and I was sliding all over the road. They still had at least 50% of the tread left, but the tires just melted to the road when it was hot. I saved up and bought the new Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads. So far, I love them! I also just rotated them today and I compared the front to back and they are identical. There is no visible wear and I am a pretty spirited driver...if you know what I mean! They handled great in the winter, handle awesome on wet or dry pavement, and they look pretty bad a**.
Check out this site for great prices on new tires...
www.tirerack.com
I bought the tires here, and took them to my mechanic and he put them on my rims. It was still cheaper to do it that way rather than to buy the tires from him. I got the tires for $84 a tire and he wanted to charge me $130 before he would have even marked them up! Definately check out this site.|||look for the wear bars. these are the little bars that go across the low spots in the tread. if they are even with the tread, it%26#039;s time to hit the tire shop. on high performance tires, 40k seems like about time to buy some replacements.|||Depends, I get 30-36,000 from my ultra high tires, I%26#039;ve tried BF Goodrich, Goodyear Eagle, Falken FK451. Even with proper air pressure and rotating they never seem to wear exactly evenly. So, I change all 4 whenever the tread is completely worn down in one spot like on one side, or if the tread is worn way down and rainy season is approaching, tread is very important in wet weather and new tires grip so much better on wet roads. Also, if the steering wheel is shaky or the tires just don%26#039;t feel right, I change them. 40,000 miles is actually quite good for ultra high tires.|||take your vehicle to a service center and have the tires checked to see if they will pass inspection, they usually take a penny and stick it between the grooves and if the tread doesn%26#039;t stick up and touch Lincoln%26#039;s%26#039; head then it is time for new tires|||when they start to get flat|||Change when the threads are less than 2 mm ( 1/12 inch) deep or if they are more than 6 years old.
How can I change the Car steering wheel from left to right for different countries?
I like to export car to the Far East. How can I change the steering wheel to the right? How much does the export fee cost?|||Not very many countries in the Far East drive on the left. Aside from most former British colonies, there%26#039;s Japan, Indonesia, Macau, Mozambique, Thailand and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Also, you don%26#039;t have to have the steering wheel on the right in order to drive on the left... but many countries have banned cars with steering wheels on the wrong side.|||It%26#039;s not worth the trouble. I live in Greece (left-hand drive) %26amp; drive a British car. (right-hand drive) I don%26#039;t have a problem.
You wouldn%26#039;t be able to reach the peddles either! ;o)|||It will be very expensive to change the steering wheel from side to side, better just to leave it alone.
The export fees will depend on the value of the vehicle and the method of transporting it.|||Exporting cars involve more than changing the steering wheel. Each country has its own regulation and costly to meet the specifications. Also you need to consider duties. Pay somebody to get some real advice.|||It is not necessary and moreover, it is cost prohibitive.|||Far-East countries and people care less about which side of the car that they are driving. As a matter of fact, the steering on the wrong side of the car makes it genuinely import thus the value even may be increased.|||I think it might be cheaper and easier just to buy a new car when you get there. I%26#039;ve never heard of anyone changing the driving side around ... it would probably take some serious engineering.|||Not just the wheel, but the whole dashboard with all the wiring, etc. and all the mechanicals under the hood. Cheaper to sell and buy a car in the country you%26#039;re considering
You wouldn%26#039;t be able to reach the peddles either! ;o)|||It will be very expensive to change the steering wheel from side to side, better just to leave it alone.
The export fees will depend on the value of the vehicle and the method of transporting it.|||Exporting cars involve more than changing the steering wheel. Each country has its own regulation and costly to meet the specifications. Also you need to consider duties. Pay somebody to get some real advice.|||It is not necessary and moreover, it is cost prohibitive.|||Far-East countries and people care less about which side of the car that they are driving. As a matter of fact, the steering on the wrong side of the car makes it genuinely import thus the value even may be increased.|||I think it might be cheaper and easier just to buy a new car when you get there. I%26#039;ve never heard of anyone changing the driving side around ... it would probably take some serious engineering.|||Not just the wheel, but the whole dashboard with all the wiring, etc. and all the mechanicals under the hood. Cheaper to sell and buy a car in the country you%26#039;re considering
03 Chevy Impala old police car change enigine oil light stays on after I changed the oil what do I do?
03 Chevy Impala old police car change enigine oil light stays on after I changed the oil what do I do?|||you say you did the gas pedal to the floor 3 times and it didn%26#039;t work so now try unhooking one battery cable for about 2 minutes and rehook it.|||Turn the key to run and push the gas pdeal down three times within five seconds. Oil type has nothing to do with it, It counts RPM%26#039;s ,So if you get on it all the time the light will come on faster than if you drive consevatively
On some of the chevys there is a red button under a panel next to the fuses. If you open the drivers door you will see the panel on the dash.|||The light needs to be reset manually after an oil change. It does not go off automatically. Try the other posters method, if it does not work there may may be a different procedure. If the car has a manual, which I doubt, it%26#039;s in there.|||You have to Reset the light. try this , Turn the key to the on poistion and push the gas pedal all the way down to the floor 3 times within 5 seconds. that should reset the light. good luck
P.S. unhooking the battery will not reset any lights !!|||did it go on before or after change? if it went on after maybe used wrong grade oil
On some of the chevys there is a red button under a panel next to the fuses. If you open the drivers door you will see the panel on the dash.|||The light needs to be reset manually after an oil change. It does not go off automatically. Try the other posters method, if it does not work there may may be a different procedure. If the car has a manual, which I doubt, it%26#039;s in there.|||You have to Reset the light. try this , Turn the key to the on poistion and push the gas pedal all the way down to the floor 3 times within 5 seconds. that should reset the light. good luck
P.S. unhooking the battery will not reset any lights !!|||did it go on before or after change? if it went on after maybe used wrong grade oil
Does anyone know how soon you have to change car registration once you move in to Massachusetts.?
I am moving from Pennsylvania to Massachusetts and I was wondering if any one knows how soon you have to change car registration once you move in to Massachusetts.|||You might find this website helpful. You will need to get MA insurance and a safety inspection. Almost all gas stations that provide car repair have safety inspection centers.
http://www.dmv.org/ma-massachusetts/car-鈥?/a>
Welcome to Massachusetts!|||most states give 30 days....go to DMVMA|||you should be able to find that info online try looking i bet they have a dmv online
http://www.dmv.org/ma-massachusetts/car-鈥?/a>
Welcome to Massachusetts!|||most states give 30 days....go to DMVMA|||you should be able to find that info online try looking i bet they have a dmv online
What is causing my car to jerk after I changed the battery, but the car was working fine before the change?
I recently changed my car battery because my battery kept dying after multiple jumps, and there was nothing else wrong with the car besides the battery before the change, but now my car continually jerks and the rpms are way too high. What do I do to fix it?|||Check your battery cables.|||. The battery has nothing to do with the jerking because the alternator takes over after the car is running. But if your alternator is bad and not giving you full performance it may cause you engine to shut off if the battery is too low to carry the load. By the sound of it I would check the alternator/voltage regulator. They commonly go out and cause you battery troubles by not recharging.|||Not sure how old your car is but most modern computer controlled cars reset the computer when you disconnect the battery. It can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few days for all the parameters to get realigned. Most shops will connect a jumper with a small 12v battery to keep the computer memory active when swapping a battery, thus preventing the reset from happening.
Normally the reset is pretty seamless so I am not too sure about your jerking but it may be related to this. Good luck.
Normally the reset is pretty seamless so I am not too sure about your jerking but it may be related to this. Good luck.
How Much Does it cost to Change the Colour of you Car? uk.?
Hi im in the Uk and just wondering how much does it cost to change car colour, i want to go from silver to black? please help? xxx|||1500.00+ for just the outside - (743.00GBP)
This is not including the door jams - trunk or hood jams.
If you want the jams to match then you talking more like - 3000.00+ (1487.72 GBP)
More if there is body work involved, and I know there is some.
This is not including the door jams - trunk or hood jams.
If you want the jams to match then you talking more like - 3000.00+ (1487.72 GBP)
More if there is body work involved, and I know there is some.
By what factor does the kinetic energy of a car change when its speed is doubled?
By what factor does the kinetic energy of a car change when its speed is doubled?|||From the formula, KE = (1/2)*m*v^2, where v is its speed.
Since v is doubled, then KE_NEW = (1/2)*m*(2v)^2 = 4*[(1/2)*m*v^2] = 4KE, so the kinetic energy is four times the original.|||let previous speed =y and new speed = x than it changes by the following equation (x-y)^2 *m/2|||by 2^2. from the fromula of kinetic energy = 1/2 m v^2
Since v is doubled, then KE_NEW = (1/2)*m*(2v)^2 = 4*[(1/2)*m*v^2] = 4KE, so the kinetic energy is four times the original.|||let previous speed =y and new speed = x than it changes by the following equation (x-y)^2 *m/2|||by 2^2. from the fromula of kinetic energy = 1/2 m v^2
Should I change car engine oil by milage or by months?
Generally speaking, people suggest to change car engine oil every 3000 miles or every 3 months.
I have a car that I don%26#039;t drive much. I drive about 1000 miles in 3 months and it%26#039;s been little over 3 months since my last oil change. So, in such a case, should I change this car%26#039;s engine oil now since it%26#039;s been 3 months since the last oil change? or should I wait until I reach close to 3000 miles even if it means waiting another 5 to 6 months?|||The reason you change your oil is to maintain good viscosity which keeps metal parts from touching and creating friction. Viscosity is lost in oil as it is heated to great degrees and then cooled. So with that said it%26#039;s mostly the mileage that you want to concern yourself with but even so I wouldn%26#039;t let oil sit in my car for over a year regardless the mileage. 3 months of being in the car isn%26#039;t a good reason to change your oil.|||Once the oil container is opened, it starts to age. As it ages, the additives are lost.
Also one function of oil is to emulsify the water in the system, so if the emulsifier is all used up or died due to age it no longer protect the engine from condensation (water).
This water will be at the bottom of the oil pan and be the first thing that the oil pump picks up. While I know water is a good lubricant it is not some thing I want in the valve lifters (or main bearing). It does not help the rings either.
The end result is a short lived engine. But with your driving habits you will never notice it.
This in one reason that a low mileage car is not a good gamble and why I will buy a high mileage car before a low mileage one.
Change by months.|||Changing your oil every 3000 miles is a scam. Generally car manufacturers recommends changing oil every 5000 miles. Read your service manual.
Why would oil go bad after 3 months? It can sit on the shelf in a store for years and still be fine.
I restore old cars for a hobby. I have a 1935 Ford truck with 7000 miles on it and have changed the oil in it 3 times over the last 12 years. 1st time was after a few hundred miles to clean out the assembly lube. 2nd time was 3500 miles and I just changed it again last week. The oil was still clean.|||I%26#039;ve got the same problem and I change the engine oil once a year or 9,000 miles, whichever comes first using http://www.mobiloil.com full synthetic oil. Note that you can%26#039;t decide when a fluid needs changing by %26quot;looking at it%26quot;. You have to change it before any visible signs of deterioration are apparent. That%26#039;s what %26quot;oil testing%26quot; is all about.|||Correct mileage or quarterly. It%26#039;s good insurance for your engine.
Stop and go driving is not the best for circulating oil.
Also, tires and battery age, even without mileage.
My car recommends 5, 000 mile oil changes. I don%26#039;t drive much so I change at 3,000.|||mileage...unless the low miles you do are hard driving, thrashing the nads off the engine etc especially if you only do short trips so the engine never warms up properly|||MIND THE MILEAGE.NOT THE MONTH COUNT!|||oil is good for evey 3000 miles so no you shouldn%26#039;t have to. I change my oil when it turns black.
I have a car that I don%26#039;t drive much. I drive about 1000 miles in 3 months and it%26#039;s been little over 3 months since my last oil change. So, in such a case, should I change this car%26#039;s engine oil now since it%26#039;s been 3 months since the last oil change? or should I wait until I reach close to 3000 miles even if it means waiting another 5 to 6 months?|||The reason you change your oil is to maintain good viscosity which keeps metal parts from touching and creating friction. Viscosity is lost in oil as it is heated to great degrees and then cooled. So with that said it%26#039;s mostly the mileage that you want to concern yourself with but even so I wouldn%26#039;t let oil sit in my car for over a year regardless the mileage. 3 months of being in the car isn%26#039;t a good reason to change your oil.|||Once the oil container is opened, it starts to age. As it ages, the additives are lost.
Also one function of oil is to emulsify the water in the system, so if the emulsifier is all used up or died due to age it no longer protect the engine from condensation (water).
This water will be at the bottom of the oil pan and be the first thing that the oil pump picks up. While I know water is a good lubricant it is not some thing I want in the valve lifters (or main bearing). It does not help the rings either.
The end result is a short lived engine. But with your driving habits you will never notice it.
This in one reason that a low mileage car is not a good gamble and why I will buy a high mileage car before a low mileage one.
Change by months.|||Changing your oil every 3000 miles is a scam. Generally car manufacturers recommends changing oil every 5000 miles. Read your service manual.
Why would oil go bad after 3 months? It can sit on the shelf in a store for years and still be fine.
I restore old cars for a hobby. I have a 1935 Ford truck with 7000 miles on it and have changed the oil in it 3 times over the last 12 years. 1st time was after a few hundred miles to clean out the assembly lube. 2nd time was 3500 miles and I just changed it again last week. The oil was still clean.|||I%26#039;ve got the same problem and I change the engine oil once a year or 9,000 miles, whichever comes first using http://www.mobiloil.com full synthetic oil. Note that you can%26#039;t decide when a fluid needs changing by %26quot;looking at it%26quot;. You have to change it before any visible signs of deterioration are apparent. That%26#039;s what %26quot;oil testing%26quot; is all about.|||Correct mileage or quarterly. It%26#039;s good insurance for your engine.
Stop and go driving is not the best for circulating oil.
Also, tires and battery age, even without mileage.
My car recommends 5, 000 mile oil changes. I don%26#039;t drive much so I change at 3,000.|||mileage...unless the low miles you do are hard driving, thrashing the nads off the engine etc especially if you only do short trips so the engine never warms up properly|||MIND THE MILEAGE.NOT THE MONTH COUNT!|||oil is good for evey 3000 miles so no you shouldn%26#039;t have to. I change my oil when it turns black.
How do you change car tittles?
My cousin who now lives in Japan left a buick which is in her name down here. Its hard to get up with her in Japan so how can I change the car tittle?|||We had a similar situation.
We never got the signatures needed (not for a car though) and were stuck with the item purchased, with no way to put it in our name :( We%26#039;ve since scrapped it out.
You have to mail her the title, get her to sign the back of it - and get her to mail the title back to you, signed.
Now pray the mail carriers don%26#039;t lose it. |||You may have to send her the title and have her sign off on it. Then you can sell the car or switch names in the title.|||insurence agency. go to her%26#039;s and yours and tell them waht%26#039;s going on. they should be able ot switch names for u.|||She will need to sign legal paperwork turning the car over to you. May be difficult since she is not in the U.S..|||You need to have her/his signature on the back of the title as seller. Most states require you to have 1 or both parties present to have the title notarized. The only other way is to file for an abandoned title, again that may take of to 30 days. Call the DMV in your state.
We never got the signatures needed (not for a car though) and were stuck with the item purchased, with no way to put it in our name :( We%26#039;ve since scrapped it out.
You have to mail her the title, get her to sign the back of it - and get her to mail the title back to you, signed.
Now pray the mail carriers don%26#039;t lose it. |||You may have to send her the title and have her sign off on it. Then you can sell the car or switch names in the title.|||insurence agency. go to her%26#039;s and yours and tell them waht%26#039;s going on. they should be able ot switch names for u.|||She will need to sign legal paperwork turning the car over to you. May be difficult since she is not in the U.S..|||You need to have her/his signature on the back of the title as seller. Most states require you to have 1 or both parties present to have the title notarized. The only other way is to file for an abandoned title, again that may take of to 30 days. Call the DMV in your state.
Can i change car insurance providers whilst a claim is being made?
I want to change my car insurance provider as i am paying to much each month in premiums and cant afford to keep paying them. But i recently was involved in an accident and the other party is claiming against me. Can i still change providers whilst this claim is ongoing? or do i have to wait untill the claim is settled?|||Your current insurance would continue to be responsible for whatever claims were made on the date of the accident, since it happened while they were covering. And of course you have absolute right to cancel or change your insurance policy at any time for any, or even for no, reason. So, do you have to wait? No, not legally. Is human nature such that changing could affect the cooperation you get from your old company?
You decide.|||You can, but I%26#039;d strongly recommend that you settle the claim first.|||Any claims against you only require the insurance to be in effect at the time of the accident. While I can see no requirement for you to continue with your current insurance company, I would expect that they will not be happy to see you leave while the claim is still in process. It may make it more difficult for you to deal with them and settle your current problem.|||No you do not have to wait until the claim is settled,but if you think your present insurance is charging you too much now,wait until they add the surcharge for your latest accident.|||Go ahead and change. the claim will still be against your old policy, but you must inform your new insurance or you will be in deep trouble as if you don%26#039;t your new insurance will be null and void, so if you have another accident no matter how much you have paid in you will not be covered.|||Yes. All that matters is that you had an active policy on the date of loss. If you were to cancel your policy the very next day after the accident, it has no bearing on the fact they owe you coverage for the date of loss.
You decide.|||You can, but I%26#039;d strongly recommend that you settle the claim first.|||Any claims against you only require the insurance to be in effect at the time of the accident. While I can see no requirement for you to continue with your current insurance company, I would expect that they will not be happy to see you leave while the claim is still in process. It may make it more difficult for you to deal with them and settle your current problem.|||No you do not have to wait until the claim is settled,but if you think your present insurance is charging you too much now,wait until they add the surcharge for your latest accident.|||Go ahead and change. the claim will still be against your old policy, but you must inform your new insurance or you will be in deep trouble as if you don%26#039;t your new insurance will be null and void, so if you have another accident no matter how much you have paid in you will not be covered.|||Yes. All that matters is that you had an active policy on the date of loss. If you were to cancel your policy the very next day after the accident, it has no bearing on the fact they owe you coverage for the date of loss.
What are signs that I should change car wipers?
The wiper on the rear window of my car is barely working. It can only wipe about the first fifth of the area it%26#039;s supposed to cover. Does this mean I should change? I have no idea when I last changed the wipers too, which is another sign.
Also, what are good brands of wipers? Is there a specific type I should get for rear window wipers?
Thanks in advance|||You need more than just a wiper blade. I%26#039;d get it to a shop and get an estimate for repairing it.|||That does mean you should change. That is unsafe...you may get a few more months out of the wipers if you clean it with rubbing compound. Check your car%26#039;s manual or the representatives at your local parts dealer for the type of wiper you need for the back. Make sure you do not skimp on the wipers b/c they%26#039;re very important.
Added: I misread the question, if the wiper only goes about 1/5th the window, it%26#039;s not the wiper it%26#039;s probably the motor. Take the panel off of the back hatch and take out the wiper motor and test it with a multimeter. Best to buy a new one and directly replace it.|||Wiper blades generally are good for about 6 months. Even if they are seldom used, they are still subject to UV rays which can deteriorate the rubber/plastic in them. I generally change mine 2X a year Spring and Fall. If you don%26#039;t remember whose brand blades you last used you may need more than just the %26quot;rubbers%26quot; and have to replace the entire wiper blade assembly-which is more expensive-think $6/assemble vs about $3 for just the refill.|||wipers are pretty cheap, if it%26#039;s not doing the job just change it, when you take your car in for an oil change they can check and change wipers for you if you have no idea how to do it, but it%26#039;s really easy if you don%26#039;t mind trying|||anytime your wipers start to streak or miss areas you should replace them. Also check them over for splits or tearing. any defects should be enough to replace them. Always replace them in sets. I always hang onto the best looking wiper blade as an emergency backup should I ever get a broken one and be somewhere I can%26#039;t get to a parts store right away. A used one that streaks is better than one that is broken and leaving you stranded along the highway. at least you can see something and still use the wipers. Go to your local parts store and try to get the factory authorized replacements. Those so called double blades don%26#039;t work all that great either. Triple edge are ok
Also, what are good brands of wipers? Is there a specific type I should get for rear window wipers?
Thanks in advance|||You need more than just a wiper blade. I%26#039;d get it to a shop and get an estimate for repairing it.|||That does mean you should change. That is unsafe...you may get a few more months out of the wipers if you clean it with rubbing compound. Check your car%26#039;s manual or the representatives at your local parts dealer for the type of wiper you need for the back. Make sure you do not skimp on the wipers b/c they%26#039;re very important.
Added: I misread the question, if the wiper only goes about 1/5th the window, it%26#039;s not the wiper it%26#039;s probably the motor. Take the panel off of the back hatch and take out the wiper motor and test it with a multimeter. Best to buy a new one and directly replace it.|||Wiper blades generally are good for about 6 months. Even if they are seldom used, they are still subject to UV rays which can deteriorate the rubber/plastic in them. I generally change mine 2X a year Spring and Fall. If you don%26#039;t remember whose brand blades you last used you may need more than just the %26quot;rubbers%26quot; and have to replace the entire wiper blade assembly-which is more expensive-think $6/assemble vs about $3 for just the refill.|||wipers are pretty cheap, if it%26#039;s not doing the job just change it, when you take your car in for an oil change they can check and change wipers for you if you have no idea how to do it, but it%26#039;s really easy if you don%26#039;t mind trying|||anytime your wipers start to streak or miss areas you should replace them. Also check them over for splits or tearing. any defects should be enough to replace them. Always replace them in sets. I always hang onto the best looking wiper blade as an emergency backup should I ever get a broken one and be somewhere I can%26#039;t get to a parts store right away. A used one that streaks is better than one that is broken and leaving you stranded along the highway. at least you can see something and still use the wipers. Go to your local parts store and try to get the factory authorized replacements. Those so called double blades don%26#039;t work all that great either. Triple edge are ok
How often do you need to change car oil?
I know it%26#039;s really important to change the engine oil so I make regular checks however I%26#039;m starting to think that I may be doing it wrong.
The way I check is how I was taught when learning to drive. That is to use the dipstick and dip it in the oil when it%26#039;s cold and if it is between the min. and max. mark then it%26#039;s okay. Well I%26#039;ve been doing this for the past 10months with my car now and the oil never seems to have gone down. Does this sound right?|||sometimes good cars dont use alot of oil.look in the owners manual and it will tell you how many quarts it holds.usually it good to change every 2000 3000 miles!!depending on oil.|||I think you%26#039;re getting confused between checking %26amp; changing the oil in your car.
A decent modern car won%26#039;t use or lose any oil, so you shouldn%26#039;t notice any drop in level on the dipstick. Keep checking though, so if the car does start using oil, you%26#039;ll notice quickly %26amp; hopefully get any potential problem sorted.
The car will have a service schedule which tells you how often the oil should be changed (this is where a garage or mechanic replaces all of your engine%26#039;s old oil with new stuff). The intervals vary, but it%26#039;s usually around 12 months or 10,000 miles in the UK (up to 30,000 on some vehicles). In the US, people still seem to change their oil much more frequently (3 months or 3,000 miles), but with modern synthetic %26amp; semi synthetic oils, that%26#039;s just not necessary unless you have a very high performance car.|||It will tell you in the car hand book how often to change the oil - with modern cars it can be every 9000 - 15000 miles depending on the car but it must be done at least every 12 months, whichever comes first - the mileage or the year. My Smart car oil change is every 9000 miles but as I don%26#039;t do 9000 miles in a year, I have to have the oil changed every 12 months. If your oil doesn%26#039;t go down, as shown on the dipstick, then the car is not burning oil but it will probably look very black and dirty - this shows it is doing it%26#039;s job and keeping your engine clean and well oiled.|||Just because your oil level doesn%26#039;t get lower doesn%26#039;t mean you don%26#039;t need to change your oil. If the oil is really dark and smells burnt, I would change it. Typically you should change your oil every 5000 miles depending on how the car is driven and the environment it is driven in. Are you stuck in traffic all the time and the car is at idle a lot? You should probably change your oil more often.|||Yes it is possible for it not to go down in that time.
Cars have different needs when it comes to oil changes for miles and time.
Your owners manual and/or service book should tell you when to do yours. It is never longer than 12 months though between changes.|||What you are doing to check the oil is fine. But, compared to the alternative, oil is cheap. Replace it every 3-4 thousand miles.|||Yep! That%26#039;s fine - do it on level ground and you will get the mark right.
Change the oil every 10,000 miles at least - I do mine every 6 months regardless of the miles I have done......clean oil means clean running and smoother operation.|||You still need to change it
it gets dirty and doesn%26#039;t lubricate properly
You should change it about twice a year|||Use Mobil One, %26quot;designed to meet your car-makers spec%26#039;s.%26quot; Change it once a year, or when it gets really dark or thick.|||they say every 3 month or every 3000 mile which ever comes first.|||i do mine every 10.000 miles and the clock is now on 256.000 miles and i have had no probs.
The way I check is how I was taught when learning to drive. That is to use the dipstick and dip it in the oil when it%26#039;s cold and if it is between the min. and max. mark then it%26#039;s okay. Well I%26#039;ve been doing this for the past 10months with my car now and the oil never seems to have gone down. Does this sound right?|||sometimes good cars dont use alot of oil.look in the owners manual and it will tell you how many quarts it holds.usually it good to change every 2000 3000 miles!!depending on oil.|||I think you%26#039;re getting confused between checking %26amp; changing the oil in your car.
A decent modern car won%26#039;t use or lose any oil, so you shouldn%26#039;t notice any drop in level on the dipstick. Keep checking though, so if the car does start using oil, you%26#039;ll notice quickly %26amp; hopefully get any potential problem sorted.
The car will have a service schedule which tells you how often the oil should be changed (this is where a garage or mechanic replaces all of your engine%26#039;s old oil with new stuff). The intervals vary, but it%26#039;s usually around 12 months or 10,000 miles in the UK (up to 30,000 on some vehicles). In the US, people still seem to change their oil much more frequently (3 months or 3,000 miles), but with modern synthetic %26amp; semi synthetic oils, that%26#039;s just not necessary unless you have a very high performance car.|||It will tell you in the car hand book how often to change the oil - with modern cars it can be every 9000 - 15000 miles depending on the car but it must be done at least every 12 months, whichever comes first - the mileage or the year. My Smart car oil change is every 9000 miles but as I don%26#039;t do 9000 miles in a year, I have to have the oil changed every 12 months. If your oil doesn%26#039;t go down, as shown on the dipstick, then the car is not burning oil but it will probably look very black and dirty - this shows it is doing it%26#039;s job and keeping your engine clean and well oiled.|||Just because your oil level doesn%26#039;t get lower doesn%26#039;t mean you don%26#039;t need to change your oil. If the oil is really dark and smells burnt, I would change it. Typically you should change your oil every 5000 miles depending on how the car is driven and the environment it is driven in. Are you stuck in traffic all the time and the car is at idle a lot? You should probably change your oil more often.|||Yes it is possible for it not to go down in that time.
Cars have different needs when it comes to oil changes for miles and time.
Your owners manual and/or service book should tell you when to do yours. It is never longer than 12 months though between changes.|||What you are doing to check the oil is fine. But, compared to the alternative, oil is cheap. Replace it every 3-4 thousand miles.|||Yep! That%26#039;s fine - do it on level ground and you will get the mark right.
Change the oil every 10,000 miles at least - I do mine every 6 months regardless of the miles I have done......clean oil means clean running and smoother operation.|||You still need to change it
it gets dirty and doesn%26#039;t lubricate properly
You should change it about twice a year|||Use Mobil One, %26quot;designed to meet your car-makers spec%26#039;s.%26quot; Change it once a year, or when it gets really dark or thick.|||they say every 3 month or every 3000 mile which ever comes first.|||i do mine every 10.000 miles and the clock is now on 256.000 miles and i have had no probs.
Can I change car insurance in the middle of a claim?
I bought a different car and want to change insurance companies but was iin an accident and they are currently paying my hospital bills. It wasn%26#039;t my fault, as I was rear ended. Can I still find a cheaper insurance for the new car?|||Insure the new vehicle with whatever company you want. If you have gotten rid of the car that was involved in the claim (total loss or sold) call your current insurance company and inform that that you want to cancel coverage as of today.|||Sure,it shouldn%26#039;t matter.The insurance that%26#039;s paying now is still the responsible company at the time of the accident.|||Yes, you can change insurance companies with an open claim. You could find cheaper insurance it just depends on the difference of value between the two vehicles. Insurance rates are determined as follows: your age, location, driving record, value of your vehicle|||Yes you can
How often do I need to change car battery or car tyres?
What %26quot;signs%26quot; do i look for that tells me I might need to change them... apart from having a flat or stalled car of course lol.
p/s: I am a total car maintenance newbie|||AS A GENERAL RULE---
Most car batteries are good for from 3-5 years, depending on the quality and the degree of maintenance.
As for the telltale signs of failure, there aren%26#039;t many other than the car begins to crank over a little slow. The only other sign is the car won%26#039;t start in the morning.
There are signs that the mechanic sees, but you won%26#039;t notice it because you aren%26#039;t checking it and probably don%26#039;t have the equipment.
As for tires, those are easier to check.
If you look closely at the tread pattern, at the bottom of the grooves, you will see little raised bars that run across the entire tread. When you can see them clearly, and they are as exposed as the tread, the tires are no longer safe or legal.
These are the %26#039;safety bars%26#039; that are cast into the rubber to identify when they have reached a tread depth less than 2/32%26quot;.
You can also tell it is time when you place a penny with Lincoln%26#039;s head toward the tread. If you can see the top of his head, you have less than 2/32%26quot; remaining.
It is smart to not allow them to get this worn, because this is the absolute minimum tread. It is best to keep at least 4/32%26quot; (1/8%26quot;) tread depth, and then begin to look for sales.
Replace them with the size recommended by the manufacturer, and replace them in matching pairs left to right.
Keep them inflated properly (check the owner%26#039;s manual or the driver%26#039;s door post) for longer tire wear and safety, not to mention the fuel economy.
Hope this clears things up
Good Luck|||I%26#039;m not too sure about car battery, but your tyres needs to be changed when they%26#039;re isn%26#039;t much grip on the tyres, when it%26#039;s been worn down. This takes about 1 year I think. But if you don%26#039;t want to fork out alot of money for new tyres every year, then go to your local garage and buy 2nd hand tyres, then still have grip on them and they%26#039;re cheaper too :D|||Pushing a battery past 5 years is pushing your luck. There may be a date poked out of the decal on the battery.
Tires just need some tread on them.|||car battery - 5 to 6 years if you check the battery and make sure the electrolyte is topped up and the terminals are clean
car tyres - 50,000 to 60,000 km. and you have to make sure that the front wheels are checked and wheel alignment carried out once every 2 to 3 years to prevent uneven wear due to wheel out of alignment
For car battery - if you start to find it hard to start and this is usually the early warning of your battery going flat or worn out.|||first know the road surface you%26#039;re regularly driving. if it is concrete then it tends to wear out you tire faster than asphalt, if you go drive on rough roads then it would tend to shorten battery life batteries have a life span just a bit longer than their warranty period. tires life span is also, determined how often you use your brakes. consider also your tire pressure and wheel balance to achieve maximum usage of your tires.|||Look carefully at the tread of your car tires. Most manufactureres will have an indicator (or marking) on the tire, when it wears down to a certain point. It%26#039;s always best to go to a proffessional.
Batteries can have a life of up to 2 even 3 years. You%26#039;ll need to add distilled water occasionaly. You might want to get a multimeter to measure the volatage that the battery still has.|||Down southern USA heat is hard on tyres tires and battery%26#039;s liquid evaporates. So after you have 50,000km or 25,000 miles you should have tread on the tires checked and replace if tread is 2/32 inch or 1mm Batteries you may notice a different sound or slower than normal cranking of the motor. If you notice it is good get the battery inspected. But what usually happens you turn the key machine gun like clicks or one click and no lights or dim lights.|||A cars battery will vary in the length of life it delivers but generally 3 to 5 years at the outside is a normal life span and unfortunately they often give you little if any warning sign except the day it won,t start. As far as the tires go there are built in tread wear indicators that let you know when the tread is getting down to an unsafe point of wear. These are small bands in between the grooves of the tire tread that when flush with the tire surface indicate that it is time to replace the tires or if you have a tire depth gage less than 2/32 of an inch is getting about time to start looking for new tires.|||Try to find an honest repair shop, where you can have your maintenance done. Get to know them , Oil inspection includes
tire check and battery inspection. There are many factors a new
battery can fail just as a new tire can be defective. Weather is
a big factor Regular inspections at 3000 miles when you have
your oil service can keep you from being surprised by a bad
battery or bald tires.
Ase Master Tech.|||If u get up one morning and turn the key and it does nothing then its time for a new battery .
Use them tyres till there bald as a babbys a$$|||the tires have %26quot;tread wear indicators%26quot; which are in the treads and exposed when they wear down. If they are flush with the treads it%26#039;s time for new tires. As for the battery, if you have the kind you can check .You can add distilled water when it gets low.Other than that there is nothing you can do and replace it just when it no longer works
p/s: I am a total car maintenance newbie|||AS A GENERAL RULE---
Most car batteries are good for from 3-5 years, depending on the quality and the degree of maintenance.
As for the telltale signs of failure, there aren%26#039;t many other than the car begins to crank over a little slow. The only other sign is the car won%26#039;t start in the morning.
There are signs that the mechanic sees, but you won%26#039;t notice it because you aren%26#039;t checking it and probably don%26#039;t have the equipment.
As for tires, those are easier to check.
If you look closely at the tread pattern, at the bottom of the grooves, you will see little raised bars that run across the entire tread. When you can see them clearly, and they are as exposed as the tread, the tires are no longer safe or legal.
These are the %26#039;safety bars%26#039; that are cast into the rubber to identify when they have reached a tread depth less than 2/32%26quot;.
You can also tell it is time when you place a penny with Lincoln%26#039;s head toward the tread. If you can see the top of his head, you have less than 2/32%26quot; remaining.
It is smart to not allow them to get this worn, because this is the absolute minimum tread. It is best to keep at least 4/32%26quot; (1/8%26quot;) tread depth, and then begin to look for sales.
Replace them with the size recommended by the manufacturer, and replace them in matching pairs left to right.
Keep them inflated properly (check the owner%26#039;s manual or the driver%26#039;s door post) for longer tire wear and safety, not to mention the fuel economy.
Hope this clears things up
Good Luck|||I%26#039;m not too sure about car battery, but your tyres needs to be changed when they%26#039;re isn%26#039;t much grip on the tyres, when it%26#039;s been worn down. This takes about 1 year I think. But if you don%26#039;t want to fork out alot of money for new tyres every year, then go to your local garage and buy 2nd hand tyres, then still have grip on them and they%26#039;re cheaper too :D|||Pushing a battery past 5 years is pushing your luck. There may be a date poked out of the decal on the battery.
Tires just need some tread on them.|||car battery - 5 to 6 years if you check the battery and make sure the electrolyte is topped up and the terminals are clean
car tyres - 50,000 to 60,000 km. and you have to make sure that the front wheels are checked and wheel alignment carried out once every 2 to 3 years to prevent uneven wear due to wheel out of alignment
For car battery - if you start to find it hard to start and this is usually the early warning of your battery going flat or worn out.|||first know the road surface you%26#039;re regularly driving. if it is concrete then it tends to wear out you tire faster than asphalt, if you go drive on rough roads then it would tend to shorten battery life batteries have a life span just a bit longer than their warranty period. tires life span is also, determined how often you use your brakes. consider also your tire pressure and wheel balance to achieve maximum usage of your tires.|||Look carefully at the tread of your car tires. Most manufactureres will have an indicator (or marking) on the tire, when it wears down to a certain point. It%26#039;s always best to go to a proffessional.
Batteries can have a life of up to 2 even 3 years. You%26#039;ll need to add distilled water occasionaly. You might want to get a multimeter to measure the volatage that the battery still has.|||Down southern USA heat is hard on tyres tires and battery%26#039;s liquid evaporates. So after you have 50,000km or 25,000 miles you should have tread on the tires checked and replace if tread is 2/32 inch or 1mm Batteries you may notice a different sound or slower than normal cranking of the motor. If you notice it is good get the battery inspected. But what usually happens you turn the key machine gun like clicks or one click and no lights or dim lights.|||A cars battery will vary in the length of life it delivers but generally 3 to 5 years at the outside is a normal life span and unfortunately they often give you little if any warning sign except the day it won,t start. As far as the tires go there are built in tread wear indicators that let you know when the tread is getting down to an unsafe point of wear. These are small bands in between the grooves of the tire tread that when flush with the tire surface indicate that it is time to replace the tires or if you have a tire depth gage less than 2/32 of an inch is getting about time to start looking for new tires.|||Try to find an honest repair shop, where you can have your maintenance done. Get to know them , Oil inspection includes
tire check and battery inspection. There are many factors a new
battery can fail just as a new tire can be defective. Weather is
a big factor Regular inspections at 3000 miles when you have
your oil service can keep you from being surprised by a bad
battery or bald tires.
Ase Master Tech.|||If u get up one morning and turn the key and it does nothing then its time for a new battery .
Use them tyres till there bald as a babbys a$$|||the tires have %26quot;tread wear indicators%26quot; which are in the treads and exposed when they wear down. If they are flush with the treads it%26#039;s time for new tires. As for the battery, if you have the kind you can check .You can add distilled water when it gets low.Other than that there is nothing you can do and replace it just when it no longer works
If you change car insurance, does your policy number stay the same?
If you change car insurance, does your policy number stay the same?|||If you just change the coverage (liability to full coverage), no.
If you change the whole company, then the policy number changes.
Good Luck...|||as long as you don%26#039;t change company%26#039;s it stays the same,you can change cars around on it and it doesn%26#039;t change,even switching it to lower type of insurance doesn%26#039;t change it,changing company%26#039;s though will change it,good luck.|||With my insurance compay in India, every year when I renew the policy with the same Insurance company, I get a new policy number (as indicated in the certificate of insurance, schedule).|||No
If you change the whole company, then the policy number changes.
Good Luck...|||as long as you don%26#039;t change company%26#039;s it stays the same,you can change cars around on it and it doesn%26#039;t change,even switching it to lower type of insurance doesn%26#039;t change it,changing company%26#039;s though will change it,good luck.|||With my insurance compay in India, every year when I renew the policy with the same Insurance company, I get a new policy number (as indicated in the certificate of insurance, schedule).|||No
How much does it cost in Ontario, Canada to change car title from salvage to rebuilt ?
I%26#039;m about to buy a car with Salvage title and i was wondering how much does it cost in Ontario, Canada to change car title from salvage to rebuilt consider only the cost of inspection,,, thanks much....|||Hello there, I have purchased a car from a salvage auction in Manitoba, and you have to pass 2 Inspections, your normal Safety- Mec Inspection and a BII( Body Integrity Inspection) thats to check body around for rust and frame damage. usually shops will give you a deal if you get the Safety inspection and the BII at the same time, if you bring the papers that show that your vehicle passed all the inspections your title will be changed from salvage to rebuilt.
the price of that inspection here its around 300
the price of that inspection here its around 300
Can I change car title if the car finance under someone name?
Can I change the name of the title to me even though the car is finance under my friend? Or do I have to take a loan for the car in order to transfer the title? How bout go Beyond and add another person to the title?|||No. You would need to finance the car in your name. The person that currently has the vehicle does not own it (or have a clear title) so they cannot transfer it.|||will have to get a loan if you want car sorry they dont own the car to sell it the loan company does but sure you or anyone can sign the tittle thats just a name but still wont help with loan company and money wil stil be owed|||You will need the financing of the vehicle to be under your name in order to make any changes. If you want to add another person, make sure that when you are refinancing, you include that person on the loan.
What will happen to my no claims bonus if i change car before the end of insurance year?
I am planning to swap my car, but I have three months left with my current insurer.
What will happen to my no claims bonus? What will the insurer do? will they let me change car details with them, and adjust payments then let me carry on for the remaining three months?
I am hoping i do not need to start a new policy with them, as really need the no claims bonus to help with the cost!
Thanks in advance|||The only thing that%26#039;s going to affect your no claims bonus is by claiming on your insurance due to an accident.
Most insurance companies will let you swap your car but again, most will increase your insurance premium due to the fact that most people replace old cars with a newer model.
Check your paperwork but you will also most probably find that they will charge you an Administration Fee for changing the car details.
KD|||They%26#039;ll adjust your premium (up or down) for the rest of this year and it won%26#039;t affect your bonus. Make sure you tell them before you drive the new car.|||no claims bonus stays the same.. doesnt matter about changing car.. only effects ur premium|||Your existing policy will continue with the new car details. Your NCB will not be affected at all.
Any additional premiums are not normally added to the remaining monthly ones and as well as an admin fee on top they will ask for full payment of it up front when you call by credit or debit card.|||unless you are planning a complete lifestyle change you are ok/transfer the insurance from one to the other/never heard of the no claims bonus/why buy the damn stuff if you cant use it/what state is this in
What will happen to my no claims bonus? What will the insurer do? will they let me change car details with them, and adjust payments then let me carry on for the remaining three months?
I am hoping i do not need to start a new policy with them, as really need the no claims bonus to help with the cost!
Thanks in advance|||The only thing that%26#039;s going to affect your no claims bonus is by claiming on your insurance due to an accident.
Most insurance companies will let you swap your car but again, most will increase your insurance premium due to the fact that most people replace old cars with a newer model.
Check your paperwork but you will also most probably find that they will charge you an Administration Fee for changing the car details.
KD|||They%26#039;ll adjust your premium (up or down) for the rest of this year and it won%26#039;t affect your bonus. Make sure you tell them before you drive the new car.|||no claims bonus stays the same.. doesnt matter about changing car.. only effects ur premium|||Your existing policy will continue with the new car details. Your NCB will not be affected at all.
Any additional premiums are not normally added to the remaining monthly ones and as well as an admin fee on top they will ask for full payment of it up front when you call by credit or debit card.|||unless you are planning a complete lifestyle change you are ok/transfer the insurance from one to the other/never heard of the no claims bonus/why buy the damn stuff if you cant use it/what state is this in
How often do you change your car?
When is the best time to change car to avoid expensive maintanance?|||The answer is: it depends. But the question suggests you want to save money. If you want to save money, don鈥檛 change your car and do the maintenance. If that seems painful, here鈥檚 another suggestion: figure out the monthly payment on a new car you鈥檇 like to buy. Then divide that monthly payment by your mechanic鈥檚 quoted cost for repairs on your current car. You鈥檒l probably be surprised at how few car payments that repair bill would cover!|||After the warranty expires (usually 5 years).|||4 to 5 yrs about 80 thou, miles|||Just before the warranty expires.|||Well, first, I would recommend that you do extensive research on the car you%26#039;re about to purchase and buy a carfax report to assure yourself that you can avoid expensive maintenance on your vehicle. Keep in mind though, ALL cars require maintenance at some point in their life. You wouldn%26#039;t want to buy a new car each time a problem arises with your current vehicle. Well unless, you%26#039;re wealthy...
How often does one need to change car batteries?
My car battery is about 2 years old, how often does one need to change it?
My car is a tiny car about the size of Mr. Bean%26#039;s Mini|||It really depends more on the battery than the size of the car. Most batteries will definitely let you know if you need to change them but if yours is two years old you might clean it up and look at the original label it should indicate how long you might expect it to last by warranty information or term like %26quot;three year battery.%26quot; If it is giving you any trouble starting or has had to be jumped or recharged more than once recently I would change it.|||It%26#039;s more likely that you%26#039;ll notice the fail when it%26#039;s cold which is likely to be at your home not in the middle of no where.
Though there is still the possibility of your battery dying in in the middle of no where.
|||That is like asking how often you have to change a light bulb. As often as it fails. If your battery is two years old, holding a charge and starting the vehicle, it%26#039;s fine. If you turn the key and it cranks slowly, or just clicks, you might need to change the battery, assuming the alternator hasn%26#039;t failed.|||Car battery should last 5-6 years, but it depends on a lot of factors. As long as it works there%26#039;s no need to replace it.|||A Batteries worst enemy is very cold climates... depending on the use and condition of your battery you should be able to expect approx. 4 years of life out of it....Clean Cable connections are important to the life of your battery as they will allow it to be charged properly....|||depending on the qualty of the battery, weather conditions, and other stuff, 5 to 7 years is the average.|||a batteries life depends on a few things like the climate you live in, accessories you%26#039;re running in your car, and how often you drive it to keep it charging. So I would say don%26#039;t change it until it dies.|||weekly|||They generally last 4-6 years. If you live in extreme heat or cold then it will be less.|||About 4 yrs is the life of any battery. Batterys go bad all at once, one time you start the car just fine and the next time it won%26#039;t make a sound. This usually happens when there is a change in the weather, usually when the weather goes from hot to cool, that is when baterys seem to go bad! And if Mr. Beans Mini failed to start he would probably tie a rope to someone else%26#039;s car and try to get going that way!|||Battery health really has very little to do with expiry dates or scheduled replacement. The best preventative maintenance, in my opinion, would be to find a parts house with a good battery tester. A good battery tester electronically checks the overall condition of the cells. Depending on how the car is operated, and how good the charging system is, a battery can last for 5-7 years, maybe longer. I%26#039;d get a test done before winter hits, perhaps as part of a winter prep.|||It%26#039;s the heat that kills them, but it%26#039;s the cold that buries %26#039;em.
Hot climates to more damage to batteries. It is not uncommon for people in the south to replace batteries in 2-3 years. In northern climates the same battery in the same car might last 5-7 years or even longer. That includes northern climates where the summer temperatures can get into the high 90%26#039;s.
Batteries temporarily lose their capacity in cold weather. That is why people have trouble getting their cars started when it is VERY cold out.|||It depends just have it checked every month or every change
My car is a tiny car about the size of Mr. Bean%26#039;s Mini|||It really depends more on the battery than the size of the car. Most batteries will definitely let you know if you need to change them but if yours is two years old you might clean it up and look at the original label it should indicate how long you might expect it to last by warranty information or term like %26quot;three year battery.%26quot; If it is giving you any trouble starting or has had to be jumped or recharged more than once recently I would change it.|||It%26#039;s more likely that you%26#039;ll notice the fail when it%26#039;s cold which is likely to be at your home not in the middle of no where.
Though there is still the possibility of your battery dying in in the middle of no where.
Report Abuse
|||That is like asking how often you have to change a light bulb. As often as it fails. If your battery is two years old, holding a charge and starting the vehicle, it%26#039;s fine. If you turn the key and it cranks slowly, or just clicks, you might need to change the battery, assuming the alternator hasn%26#039;t failed.|||Car battery should last 5-6 years, but it depends on a lot of factors. As long as it works there%26#039;s no need to replace it.|||A Batteries worst enemy is very cold climates... depending on the use and condition of your battery you should be able to expect approx. 4 years of life out of it....Clean Cable connections are important to the life of your battery as they will allow it to be charged properly....|||depending on the qualty of the battery, weather conditions, and other stuff, 5 to 7 years is the average.|||a batteries life depends on a few things like the climate you live in, accessories you%26#039;re running in your car, and how often you drive it to keep it charging. So I would say don%26#039;t change it until it dies.|||weekly|||They generally last 4-6 years. If you live in extreme heat or cold then it will be less.|||About 4 yrs is the life of any battery. Batterys go bad all at once, one time you start the car just fine and the next time it won%26#039;t make a sound. This usually happens when there is a change in the weather, usually when the weather goes from hot to cool, that is when baterys seem to go bad! And if Mr. Beans Mini failed to start he would probably tie a rope to someone else%26#039;s car and try to get going that way!|||Battery health really has very little to do with expiry dates or scheduled replacement. The best preventative maintenance, in my opinion, would be to find a parts house with a good battery tester. A good battery tester electronically checks the overall condition of the cells. Depending on how the car is operated, and how good the charging system is, a battery can last for 5-7 years, maybe longer. I%26#039;d get a test done before winter hits, perhaps as part of a winter prep.|||It%26#039;s the heat that kills them, but it%26#039;s the cold that buries %26#039;em.
Hot climates to more damage to batteries. It is not uncommon for people in the south to replace batteries in 2-3 years. In northern climates the same battery in the same car might last 5-7 years or even longer. That includes northern climates where the summer temperatures can get into the high 90%26#039;s.
Batteries temporarily lose their capacity in cold weather. That is why people have trouble getting their cars started when it is VERY cold out.|||It depends just have it checked every month or every change
Change car ?
I currently own a sweet Alfa Romeo 98%26#039; 156 1.8 16v twin spark and I am looking for a similar (for fellow americans that don%26#039;t know it think of a Bmw 3 series) kind of car that would be a nice, fast and would have depreciated a lot causing it to be as cheap as possible|||Well as far as fast and cheap goes, Motorcycles are your best bet. Yamaha YF6 is ~$6k new and ~$3.5K used and will be competitive against a Ferrari Enzo in 0-60 and 1/4 Mile times. That%26#039;s just a beginner%26#039;s bike too.
Now as far as hidden gems go,
The rather ugly (imho) Saab 9-3 Viggen from 2000 Fastback(Hatchback?) It%26#039;s quite quick and it was never well known since American like me never appreciated Sabb%26#039;s unique style.
Then of course there is the Miata. Though not so much a hidden gem, its common enough and old enough t be cheap while reliable enough to still be a good buy.
Lastly, people forgot abut the First generation MR2. Boxy and futuristic in an 80s sort of way, the supercharged version produced 145hp and weighed a mere 2200lbs. That%26#039;s Lotus territory right there. Along with the Mid engine, rear wheel drive configuration found in supercars, it is one of the purest sports cars on the planet.|||The Subaru Imprenza will smoke anything in it%26#039;s class....i%26#039;m not sure if you have it were you are located though...but i do know they are some badass rally style cars.
Even on a side note: Suzuki has REALLY come up in the ranks...make very good cars that are cheap, and VERY reliable.|||love Volvo%26#039;s, they are great cars and depreciate really fast ( around 75% in 4 years) and they last to 200-250 thsnd. miles.
Now as far as hidden gems go,
The rather ugly (imho) Saab 9-3 Viggen from 2000 Fastback(Hatchback?) It%26#039;s quite quick and it was never well known since American like me never appreciated Sabb%26#039;s unique style.
Then of course there is the Miata. Though not so much a hidden gem, its common enough and old enough t be cheap while reliable enough to still be a good buy.
Lastly, people forgot abut the First generation MR2. Boxy and futuristic in an 80s sort of way, the supercharged version produced 145hp and weighed a mere 2200lbs. That%26#039;s Lotus territory right there. Along with the Mid engine, rear wheel drive configuration found in supercars, it is one of the purest sports cars on the planet.|||The Subaru Imprenza will smoke anything in it%26#039;s class....i%26#039;m not sure if you have it were you are located though...but i do know they are some badass rally style cars.
Even on a side note: Suzuki has REALLY come up in the ranks...make very good cars that are cheap, and VERY reliable.|||love Volvo%26#039;s, they are great cars and depreciate really fast ( around 75% in 4 years) and they last to 200-250 thsnd. miles.
Can a car dealer request to change car after financing approved and contract signed?
I recently purchased a car. After a few weeks of getting everything in to get financing approved the dealer has now called and said that the APR was a promotion for a 2007 model and they sold me a 2008. Do I have to sign a new contract and change cars after the financing has been approved and the contract has been signed?|||If they erred, it%26#039;s their problem. You aren%26#039;t obligated to this swap, you have all the documentation that shows it%26#039;s all good. They will simply have to pay the rate difference themselves and they dont want to do that. Sucks to be them.... if they accidentally overcharged you because they forgot about a selling credit or something do you think you%26#039;d have gotten the same phone call?|||No, I think it is time to report what is called %26quot;Bait and switch%26quot; to the appropriate authorities.
The dealer pulled pulling a switch on you after they baited you (and sunk the hook real good).
If this happened to me I would just call the deal off and look for an honest dealer, this one is not.|||If you have a copy of your contract, show that to them. If they still refuse to honor it, contact your local BBB and your state%26#039;s attorney general.|||If you signed the contract already, its not your problem. The dealership is the one who screwed up.
I wouldn%26#039;t even play around with this. Just document everything (including any phone conversations you have had) and go directly to the Better Business Bureau or your state%26#039;s department of Consumer Affairs.|||No, it%26#039;s his dumb luck. If he tries to pressure you further, report him to your state%26#039;s attorney general, or whoever is in charge of consumer affairs in your area. I just hope you do actually have the car in your driveway, or else you may have to hire a lawyer to either get the car or to get out of your contract and finance deal.|||read the small print if it doesnt say anything about it then no|||While I tend to lean towards the gist of what the other people answered, you need to clarify something in your mind.
Often, people sign something with their dealer that seems like a contract, but is actually something like a purchase order, and is basically an agreement that you are buying something for some amount of renumeration, but is not the actual sales contract, which usually accompanies the finance paperwork. What you need to ensure that you have correct is that you in fact have the contract signed by both you and someone at the dealership that is authorized to commit them to a financial deal.
I have always done the two actions (financial and contractual) at the same time, or bought the car for cash, where you only have the contract, and a bill of sale (title) - which is why I am a little confused. If you just have the contract, you need to make sure that it is the real contract, which is usually multi-page and quite explicit in who does what and who is responsible for what. Conceivably, you have a contingency contract, which says that the sale is valid if certain milestones are met, like getting finance approval. That all may be wrapped up together.
I%26#039;m not trying to disparage the other answers, I just want you to be cautious and not get yourself in any legal or financial hot water. You didn%26#039;t sound like you had done a lot of this before, so the tricks they use may not be familiar to you.
The very best of luck to you, and I hope all works out well.|||I see this as the dealer%26#039;s mistake. I think as long as the contract has been signed and the title is in your name, you should NOT go back and sign a new contract and change cars.
I%26#039;m glad you posed this question because I purchased a new car 2 weeks ago w/ a $500 rebate promotion and paid cash. The dealer called me back a week later and told me that I needed to finance the car through them in order to qualify for the rebate through the manufacturer. They said they lost $500 on the car and now I need to go back and finance it. I already paid cash for the car, and in fact, they already cashed my check! The dealer is still calling me daily and I keep telling them that I will not finance the car and the deal is done. I think I will take the next step as many have recommended-- report this to the BBB! Thanks!|||Everyone else is under the assumption that the dealer did something deliberate. I am going to say that I think they made an error that has not come till now when they tried to cash the contract. The Sales Manager %26amp; Finance Manager should have caught the fact that this was a 2008 instead of the 2007 that qualifies for the subventive rates. The error could have happened anytime during the sales process especially if you were payment minded or you were asking for the low rate.
What to do about it? If you are an honest person and know that people make mistakes, you would drive the car back and trade for the 2007 model that qualifies. However, if you want to hold to your guns, the dealer can buy down the rate to keep you in the car you are currently driving. It was their mistake and they may have to eat this one. Depending on who they determine was at fault, this one is going to come out of someone%26#039;s check.
It%26#039;s your decision, but in all fairness I would swap out for the correct car.
The dealer pulled pulling a switch on you after they baited you (and sunk the hook real good).
If this happened to me I would just call the deal off and look for an honest dealer, this one is not.|||If you have a copy of your contract, show that to them. If they still refuse to honor it, contact your local BBB and your state%26#039;s attorney general.|||If you signed the contract already, its not your problem. The dealership is the one who screwed up.
I wouldn%26#039;t even play around with this. Just document everything (including any phone conversations you have had) and go directly to the Better Business Bureau or your state%26#039;s department of Consumer Affairs.|||No, it%26#039;s his dumb luck. If he tries to pressure you further, report him to your state%26#039;s attorney general, or whoever is in charge of consumer affairs in your area. I just hope you do actually have the car in your driveway, or else you may have to hire a lawyer to either get the car or to get out of your contract and finance deal.|||read the small print if it doesnt say anything about it then no|||While I tend to lean towards the gist of what the other people answered, you need to clarify something in your mind.
Often, people sign something with their dealer that seems like a contract, but is actually something like a purchase order, and is basically an agreement that you are buying something for some amount of renumeration, but is not the actual sales contract, which usually accompanies the finance paperwork. What you need to ensure that you have correct is that you in fact have the contract signed by both you and someone at the dealership that is authorized to commit them to a financial deal.
I have always done the two actions (financial and contractual) at the same time, or bought the car for cash, where you only have the contract, and a bill of sale (title) - which is why I am a little confused. If you just have the contract, you need to make sure that it is the real contract, which is usually multi-page and quite explicit in who does what and who is responsible for what. Conceivably, you have a contingency contract, which says that the sale is valid if certain milestones are met, like getting finance approval. That all may be wrapped up together.
I%26#039;m not trying to disparage the other answers, I just want you to be cautious and not get yourself in any legal or financial hot water. You didn%26#039;t sound like you had done a lot of this before, so the tricks they use may not be familiar to you.
The very best of luck to you, and I hope all works out well.|||I see this as the dealer%26#039;s mistake. I think as long as the contract has been signed and the title is in your name, you should NOT go back and sign a new contract and change cars.
I%26#039;m glad you posed this question because I purchased a new car 2 weeks ago w/ a $500 rebate promotion and paid cash. The dealer called me back a week later and told me that I needed to finance the car through them in order to qualify for the rebate through the manufacturer. They said they lost $500 on the car and now I need to go back and finance it. I already paid cash for the car, and in fact, they already cashed my check! The dealer is still calling me daily and I keep telling them that I will not finance the car and the deal is done. I think I will take the next step as many have recommended-- report this to the BBB! Thanks!|||Everyone else is under the assumption that the dealer did something deliberate. I am going to say that I think they made an error that has not come till now when they tried to cash the contract. The Sales Manager %26amp; Finance Manager should have caught the fact that this was a 2008 instead of the 2007 that qualifies for the subventive rates. The error could have happened anytime during the sales process especially if you were payment minded or you were asking for the low rate.
What to do about it? If you are an honest person and know that people make mistakes, you would drive the car back and trade for the 2007 model that qualifies. However, if you want to hold to your guns, the dealer can buy down the rate to keep you in the car you are currently driving. It was their mistake and they may have to eat this one. Depending on who they determine was at fault, this one is going to come out of someone%26#039;s check.
It%26#039;s your decision, but in all fairness I would swap out for the correct car.
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